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two baskets and a book--

12/24/2019

 
Picture
--aka: three projects to keep
my holiday angst
​ in check.
Picture
1.  a twined basket 
made with
dead leaf cordage
(iris, daylily, cornhusk)
​ and coffee filter yarn
Picture
photographed on yet another
hand spun ​coffee filter experiment.
Picture
​2. a marvelous book 
by Kate Davies
Picture
​that arrived in Idaho
soaking wet, 
Picture
its ​wrinkled pages stuck together,
and binding falling apart,
Picture
roughly but satisfyingly mended
​
with a lopsided eggbeater drill,
Picture
some hand spun linen,
and a couple of needles,
Picture
now the middle of being read
with enormous enjoyment
(extra powerful since it is once again sturdy)--
and with particular joy
because Kate's first chapter
is on mending....
Picture
3. a lopsided willow object
​intended to hold gifts
(you know -- roll it around
and open the present
that falls out the hole...)

Picture
that turned out to be too big
to fit through any doors in my house
Picture

but which nevertheless
makes a fine blind
Picture
for photographing 
the rare and non-migratory
​ ten foot pink flamingo.
Picture
Life's grand and absurd, eh?
Might as well
​let the good times roll on
(even when the gifts inside
​ are invisible).

Sides to Middle and other Mending

3/5/2019

 
Picture
Our house does not have a linen cupboard,
which means we only  have
one set of sheets at a time.
and on laundry day
​ they must go
off the bed,
into the washer,
onto the line,
and back onto the bed
before nightfall.
Picture
My husband is also a restless sleeper,
and wears out our sheets 
at what seems a prodigious rate
so over the decades
we've been through
quite a few.
And of course this makes me sad
as, being a textile person,
I get attached.

Happily however, though the cloth gives way
in the middle of a sheet
there are still many useful bits 
around the edges.

I've sewn many into bags
for shipping tapestries,
and storing clean fleeces.
Picture
Others, I've loved so much 
that I sewed them back together every which way
with bits of themselves or others
layer upon layer,
like so much flannel Boro
which can be used as an extra thick sheet
a funky quilt,
or even an indoor sleeping bag.
Picture
Still others have reinforced
my favorite bathrobe
(my only bathrobe, actually),
which grows thicker by the year
as the yummy old cotton wears away,
like sand on a coastline,
and is subsequently replaced
with the rich edges
of the most recent sheets
whose centers have bitten the dust. 
Picture
A few years ago I wondered
if actual linen linens
might last a little longer than cotton,
so splurged on two huge flat linen sheets,
on the theory that constant shifting
of bottom to top
and top to bottom 
and this side to that
might distribute the wear.
It seemed to work, for a while.
Certainly faithfully turning them 
has given me lots of good practice 
making tight hospital corners 
on whichever was acting as the bottom sheet.
But alas, even as they have grown
softer and more delicious,
the usual wear patterns still showed up
and the day before yesterday
as I hung them to dry from the beams of my studio,
I saw actual holes.
​Sigh.
Picture
But wait!
I have scissors
and needles
and thread.
I have hands
and some bits of other linen
for patches.
Dammit -- I LOVE these sheets.
I can REBUILD THEM
Picture
Sides-to-middling is a thing
I've only read about in novels --
 usually used as an adjective 
to describe genteel poverty
or excessive thriftiness
as in "she has sides-to-middle sheets."
It's not generally seen as a compliment. 
But somehow it always intrigued me.
And it seems straightforward enough.
So yesterday I cut the sheet down the center,
​(the one with actual holes),
began hemming and patching the new (worn) edges,
and later today (I hope)
​will stitch the previously unworn sides
​together to become the new middle.
​It won't be fancy,
But I hope it can go back on the bed.
Picture
But my mending is rarely fancy.
There is no special thread
or elegant Sashiko stitching in this work.
Not that I'd mind if there were.
Picture
I just know that if I set up such expectations
the mending would not happen,
so I rely on plain old running stitch,
the occasional backstitch to anchor it,
whatever thread that is at hand,
(quilting thread, embroidery floss, all purpose in some color).
and sometimes a patch
​ (fat quarters are fun)
on the inside or out
(or both for the butt of my jeans).
Picture
The results, alas, are haphazard
since for me the point
is to extend the life of beloved
or particularly useful  clothing
so they (and I) can get back to work.
Picture
Cuffs on a hand spun sweater I knit for my husband (Romney fleece), in the early 1990s --fourth or fifth cuff rebuild...
Not that mending isn't work.
Indeed, without me really noticing
​I find that it has become
an elemental component of my practice --
not only to extend the life of a handspun sweater
​or expensive sheets,
Picture
but also to honor
​some perfectly replaceable leggings
​that just happen to have come in to my life
​and fit just right
Picture
which makes them as valuable
as whatever spindle spun 
backstrap woven cloth
​I make while wearing them. 
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linsey-woolsey experiment
My mittens,
hand spun and knit by my dear friend Rochelle,
no longer look much like they did when she gave them to me,
but golly, it would have been hard 
to deal with all the snow this winter
​without the layers of yellow yarn
I hurriedly apply over the holes,
Picture
as shovel-handle friction had its way
amidst the falling snow.
Picture
But LOOK!
It's not snowing now.
And I've already showed you
way too many photos
​ of the underside
of my textile rich life.
So back we go to whatever it is we were doing.
My needle awaits.
​As does the bed.
Picture

Running Shoes—again

4/17/2018

 
Picture
Gotta have ‘em!
Picture
Fabric store ‘eco-felt’ (from plastic bottles apparently),
that has been languishing in my shoe experiment stash,
plus a scrap of nylon something-or-other
​from a failed waterproof shoe experiment,
Picture
and the not-quite-worn-out soles
​ from the now-disintegrating yellow ones,
Picture
equals a relatively swift,
and somewhat half-assed,
pair of minimalist running shoes.

Function has an elegance all its own.
Picture
Or, as wise women have said,
“​Done is better than perfect.”

Cuff Mend

3/6/2018

 
Picture
As winter draws to a close (or pretends to),
the pile of sweaters in need of a minor mend
grows ever larger --
​one more unfinished task among many.
Picture
​Knitting sleeves from shoulder to cuff with mending in mind
means it’s generally just a matter of removing the worn out fragments,
ripping back a few rows (admiring the shape the currugated rib yarn while I’m about it),
and picking up the waiting stitches to cast off again--
so I know I’ll be thoroughly engaged in the process once I start.
Picture
Indeed, I love mending--
just as I love the satisfaction of having mended
and of using/wearing things that have proven their worth over time--
so I’m not sure why I put it off.
Picture
But I do,
and this makes think yet again about how much,
despite awareness and effort,
I am influenced by this culture that pushes ever toward the new--
be it garment, phone, home, place, artwork--
as though it is obvious that the unknown is
inherently more compelling (or worthwhile)
than the thing or idea or place that has proven its worth over time--
and was the new best beloved weeks or decades ago.
Picture
Perhaps that is why mending is helpful —once I start--
as it helps me to remember how much I liked this yarn,
​ how much I like it still.

​Look —the colors glow brighter even as the re-knitting commences.

Or maybe it’s just that the sun is now shining on the snow
and bouncing into the studio,
reminding me that it is not yet spring
and an almost mended sweater will keep my best beloved warm
far sooner than the fleece I’d otherwise be carding for the next one.

Stitching and Eating Day!

12/26/2017

 
Picture
Knitting and Mending too.
Picture
May your days be warm, mellow and delicious.
Yesterday, I took a nap.
A small triumph.

Back in the New Year!

Buttercup Mending

6/27/2017

 
Picture
Does anyone else have a thing about bags -- that deal where you can't imagine leaving home, much less making it through a trip, without having your elemental stuff in the perfect bag?
Picture
Or maybe you think you're set with a  satchel that is comfortable to carry and has room for all the essentials (flashlight, mug,  pocket hang glider, ear plugs, spindle, pencils, dictionary, novel, etc),  but then you start a new project
Picture
that generatesa bunch of material you absolutely MUST have with you at all times to survive whatever the future brings
Picture
which means that the extra large custom spindle case must be called into action
Picture
and the bag you were counting on is too small and the one that might work still needs mending 
Picture
and is not, truth to tell  (thanks to previous scattershot approach to reinforcing disintegrating fabric),
Picture
the most sophisticated thing you've ever made, much less mended?
Picture

Well that never happens to me...
Picture

Mending the Oak Bay Aran

4/18/2017

 
Picture
After seven years of hard wear and two cuff mends,
the bottom of my son's sweater had begun to fray.
Shoulder to cuff is my preferred way to knit sleeves, which makes cuff mending a simple matter of unraveling a few rows and re-knitting (with other yarn if necessary).
The cast on edge of a bottom up sweater is not, however, made for unraveling,
so I  went up an inch or so, snipped a strand of yarn, and pulled out one row all the way around, leaving a nice row of stitches to pick up and an inch of sweater to unravel for re-knitting (discarding the yarn from the bottom couple of rounds which was too weak and worn to re-use).
Foolishly, I picked the row right after a cable turn to snip to separate the two sections, so the unraveling was more awkward than it might have been.
Picture
But eventually I got it all sorted and reknit and cast off.  Starting an inch up means that next time I can unravel right from the cast off end which will be much simpler. 

The only drawback to picking up the stitches and going in the opposite direction is that the loops are half a stitch off, but with the cables this really isn't evident.
Picture
Mended cuff and hem of Oak Bay Aran
Nothing miraculous  about any of this,
but a good deal of satisfaction in keeping it going, and much pleasure in handling the sweater and the yarn again.
Picture
It was a thoroughly-planned garment that began with choosing the fleece (grey Rambouillet X)
and went on to months of spindle spinning,
endless samples plied, yarn dyed, swatches knit 
​and
​mailed across several states for perusal and approval.
Picture
Swatches! Samples! Decisions!
Final decisions on yarn weight and color led to massive plying (4 ply won out over 3), huge dyepots,  much  knitting, and even some swatch unraveling at the very end as all those cables used more yarn even than what I thought were overgenerous calculations.
Picture
Rambouillet X spindle spun singles waiting their turn on the Lazy Kate (I was using the wooden bobbins for storage but the toilet paper rolls were easier)
Amazing how much sun fading there has been-- the darker strip at the bottom is the same yarn that I took off, but it shifted just enough when reknit that it appears a different color. 

On the other hand, it's amazing how little fading there has been considering how hard this sweater has been worn, and how much it has been out in the weather.

So glad it can now get back to its exciting life.
Picture
Oak Bay Aran, mended and ready for more. ©SarahCSwett 2010

Bonding with Cloth

3/7/2017

 
Picture
Sometimes I think my love of mending has nothing to do with practicality 
Picture
and everything to do with the energy of time.
It is as though the fabric itself is imbued with accumulated stories
​ and by continuing to use it,
Picture
by saving the good parts of beloved but unwearable clothing to make other things
Picture
and then mending them again when, surprise  surprise, they continue to disintegrate,
the stories in the fibers not only stay put, but also get to keep unfolding in ways that might never have been predicted decades, or days before.
​
Two weeks ago I posted about fixing my running shoes and in the comments Lisa asked:
​  "At what point does the "Ship of Theseus" kick in and they become not the original shoes?"
Picture
Two layers of mending on the straps -- now pretty sturdy despite fraying edges.
I dont' have an answer to that, though it is fun to think about.
​And certainly once I've covered up all of this-beloved-but-vanishing linen-that-was-once-my-favorite-favorite-jacket with chain stitch, 
the nature of this particular bag will be quite different.
Picture
I might feel a new person when I carry it.
Or perhaps it'll demand a fresh purpose.
Being stuffed to the gills with spindles and pens and notebook and wallet and phone and empty bags for whatever I might find, or unceremoniously  twisted into a sort of a backpack while I bicycle downtown, or hanging patiently on a hook waiting for me to do something--anything--out in the world and away from the studio, is probably not that much fun.
But it will be usable, which is the point.
Picture
Note that the needlepoint side, which used to be the bright side, shows almost no signs of wear....
Yesterday I wound a linen warp -- the first in a while--
Picture
and I noticed, as the strands unwound from the cone, how very differently I felt about the yarn
than I have about the hand spun wool with which I've been weaving for most of the winter.
​Setting aside the widely different nature of the two materials for a moment
(not least the ability of my camera  to focus easily on linen and not so much on wool),
with the wool I am careful and careless at once and work with familiar ease.  
We, the yarn and I, already have a history together and therefor a kind of casual trust.
I know what to expect from it even as together we make something new.
Its flaws are my flaws and therefor both forgivable and irritating.
Like a piece of clothing I've been wearing forever.
Or shoes I made for my feet.
Picture

With the linen (which I inherited, unlabeled, from a retired weaver), all is new,
all unknown, and though I can admire its sheen and color and texture, it is not until I've leaned against the backstrap for a few hours,
not until I've unrolled and washed and stroked the yards of cloth, that I begin to feel a connection with its future.
It's not bad. Indeed, it is exciting.
Until yesterday though, I hadn't been able to name the difference. 

Note: Margaret Sunday wrote a wonderful piece for ATA talk, a forum for members of the American Tapestry Alliance which you might think about joining if you are not already a member,  about the inherent creative possibilities of the juxtiposition of the new and the familiar:  "...we are simultaneously neophobes (haters of the new)  and neophiles (lovers of the new). Where/ when the two qualities meet, ie: where their contrast is most intense, is the ah-ha!"  


Picture
My attachment, then, is not fear of the new.
Nor is it a belief that my labor is so precious.
Indeed, one of the many reasons for making and mending my own things (particularly if I can connect with the material from the very beginning), is because I'm distressed  by how little others (usually women, at least in the garment industry), are respected for their labor.
My hands and the work they do are in no way more important or valuable than anyone else's.
It's just that they are mine to use and abuse and admire as I will.
So ​I've grown attached. 
As I do.
:-)
Picture
Me, last summer, weaving out on the deck where perhaps I will weave again if it ever, ever stops snowing...

When do you stop mending?

2/21/2017

 
Picture
It's probably time if the leather tears when removing the old soles,
Picture

and certainly when when previous patches are falling apart.
Picture
But here's an old toothbrush,
and that bottle of shampoo I don't use because it turns my hair yellow.
Picture
A little scrub means they'll look less disgusting
when I hang them on the wall.
Picture
But I don't want a shoe shrine.
And I'm not ready to toss them in the compost.​
​Just a few stitches.
Picture
And hey -- here is that pile of leather scraps my friend Ivy game me.
Picture
None are large or sturdy enough for a new pair or shoes.
Picture
But there are so many colors!
Picture
 I guess there is life in the old shoes yet.
Picture
I see that it is about a year and a half since I last resoled these shoes, 
and three years almost exactly since I made them.
For the technically minded among you,
I run about 25 miles a week which makes about 1500 miles per set of soles, give or take,
since sometimes in the summer I wear a yellow canvas pair,
​and sometimes I wear no shoes at all...
Picture

Thinking About Cloth

1/10/2017

 
Picture
Studio Jacket (detail); blue and white scrap from a split skirt I made (and wore to shreds) about 20 years ago
Last night, as the snow fell, I did a little mending.
Picture
This morning (after shoveling and before remembering that it is tuesday which means blog day),
​ I wove a few feet of hand spun plain weave fabric as the snow continued to fall.
Picture
Woven into the Earth: Textiles from Norse Greenland by Else Østergaård; Aarhus University Press, Denmark
600 years ago (ish) in Greenland,
someone spun, wove, sewed and mended
 every garment.
Picture
My patches are haphazard, half-assed and untidy,
the stitching just barely functional.
Picture
Many of the scraps are from unmendable favorite garments
and of dubious durability,

But I use them anyway.
And they wear out again,
Picture
I'm lucky in this.
Picture
Woven into the Earth: Textiles from Norse Greenland by Else Østergaård; Aarhus University Press, Denmark
In Norse Greenland in the 1300s, I'd have had to take much more care.
Indeed, I'd have been trained to take much more care.
Picture
Sized skeins drying (white = gelatin size, brown = xanthan gum size)
I've been hand spinning most of my yarn for 35+ years,
knitting my clothes for longer than that,
weaving for nearly 30
and like to believe I'm better at all of these things than I am at mending.

Some of my  garments survive because even half-assed attention is better than none,
but even with tools like this:
Picture
Hepty Spindle by Henry C Edwards; Fleece: Cormo/Rambouillet X
not to mention this:
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Lendrum Saxony wheel; super high speed flyer (70/1 ratio); polypay fiber
I've yet to spin, weave and sew (much less get to mend), even a single dress.
Picture
Woven into the Earth: Textiles from Norse Greenland by Else Østergaård; Aarhus University Press, Denmark
Nor, for all the care and effort I put into my materials,
Picture
sized singles
would such a garment be likely to survive for centuries
buried in the permafrost.
Picture
Woven into the Earth: Textiles from Norse Greenland by Else Østergaård; Aarhus University Press, Denmark
​There is just so much to learn.
Picture
Picture

​ Woven into the Earth: Textiles from Norse Greenland by Else Østergaård; Aarhus University Press,  Denmark
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    ​Sarah C Swett 
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