is to sit on the floor
with a bit of old camping foam mat under my butt,
tools, teacups and yarn within reach,
and a growing tapestry in front of my nose.
on a fixed* warp on a pipe loom, however
(at least if the tapestry in progress
is more than a few inches tall),
regular height adjustments are necessary --
both of the loom and of my seat.
Beginning on the floor,
I perch on progressively taller 'tuffets'
until the wooden box in the images above,
is upright -- its tallest dimension.
I shorten the loom legs.
I twist off the feet and legs
If I make the loom too short,
I'll be uncomfortably hunched over
when I begin weaving again.
If not short enough,
I don't get to sit on the floor.
hardly a piece of pipe at all,
but just the thing
for getting back
to my funky blue mat.
where it was in these photos
and I am once again
climbing the tuffets--
hoping to be back on the box
weaving the words "whole wheat"
before too terribly long.
between me and all those 'w's.
and today I'm going for
"1 t baking powder".
So far, I have the "1 t b"
Back to it, then!
has the warp anchored to the top and bottom of the loom.
To change position (as shown in the photos above)
the weaver must move herself
in relation to the fell.
A Continuous Warp,
can be rotated around the loom,
allowing the weaver to stay in the same position,
and move the fell to suit her body.
Both have advantages and disadvantages --
--the first allows the weaver to see the entire tapestry the entire time
which makes spontaneous design decisions much easier,
(at least for me).
It also, potentially, has less loom waste.
--the second allows one to weave a long/tall tapestry on a relatively short loom,
and to always sit/ stand in whatever way is most comfortable.
Me -- I like both.
How lucky is that?
ps. as ever, to see other posts about pipe looms and various warping systems,
use the search bar at the top of the page and see what comes up