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Semantics

11/24/2015

 
I seem to be having a dictionary moment.
Picture
Looking up semantics you get Selvedge (selvage) and semaphore too Bonus!
Picture
"Textile" 9" x 5" ;hand woven tapestry ;wool warp and weft"
It's all about
  words
and fonts,
 definitions,
dictionaries
and the fun
​of looking things up --

Why choose this word?
Why that?
​What do any of them really mean?

Picture
Looking Into It ©Sarah C. Swett 2015
Picture
The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language; American Heritage Publishing CO., Inc. New York 1969
Note to self:
Next time I teach at
a textile conference
ask for a
no.men.cla.tor  (Latin meaning)
to follow me around so I won't embarrass myself when name tags are backwards, or hung too low for subtle inspection


Note to everyone else:
 the Apple
 computer dictionary
does not know this word.  


Picturefrom The Oxford American Dictionary and Language Guide; Oxford University Press 1999


Word choice
​in the realm
of textiles
​however,
not to mention
the medium
of tapestry
where
nomenclature
and
semantics
duke it out daily,
is not a topic
to be tackled
by the
faint of heart.




Picture
a ; 1.25" x 1"; hand woven tapestry; hand spun wool warp and weft; indigo
The ATA  glossary defines tapestry thus:
Tapestry weaving: A weft faced, woven cloth with discontinuous wefts, usually plain weave.

The Wikipedia entry begins like this:
"Tapestry is a form of textile art, traditionally woven on a vertical loom. However, it can also be woven on a floor loom. It is composed of two sets of interlaced threads, those running parallel to the length (called the warp) and those parallel to the width (called the weft); the warp threads are set up under tension on a loom, and the weft thread is passed back and forth across part or all of the warps. Tapestry is weft-faced weaving, in which all the warp threads are hidden in the completed work, unlike cloth weaving where both the warp and the weft threads may be visible. In tapestry weaving, weft yarns are typically discontinuous; the artisan interlaces each coloured weft back and forth in its own small pattern area. It is a plain weft-faced weave having weft threads of different colours worked over portions of the warp to form the design."

And of course there is Other Wikipedia entry for Tapestry: 
"Tapestry is the second album by American singer-songwriter Carole King, released in 1971 on Ode Records and produced by Lou Adler."
  All this is even before bringing in the element of size (small format vs 'regular'),
or wandering into the world of jacquard 
Picture
The Bayeux Tapestry; Alfred A. Knopf New York 1985 pl 47 detail
Picture
The Bayeux Tapestry; Pl 2 detail
or narrative embroidery
​
where history has been stitched into linen for nearly 1000 years,
the word tapestry more firmly fixed with every gorgeous thread.
PictureThe Prestonpans Tapestry 1745: Andrew Crummy, dorie Wilkie, Gillian Hart; Gordon Prestoungrange and The Stitchers; Prestoungrange University Press with Burke's Peerage & Gentry for The Battle of Prestonpans 1745 Heritage Trust; 2010



Here are links to three:
The Prestonpans Tapestry 1745
The Great Tapestry of Scotland
The French Shore Tapestry  (Conche, Newfoundland, Canada)

​

Then there is Needlepoint, 
 the medium of choice for my Grandmother
and also a favorite of mine.
Picture
Stripes panel #2; Needlepoint Comic; 60" x 40" Hand Spun Wool; Cotton; Hemp; Natural Dye ©Sarah C. Swett
Will the real tapestry please stand up???

But of course they all are real.

I know  it can make things awkward to have several media employ the same word,
and don't doubt there are always issues involving status, or perceived lack thereof
(Please don't think what I do has any relation to that," whatever 'that' might be).
But embracing all the meanings makes life less exclusive, less 'us and them.'
It also makes naming things easier.
Picture
Five Small Tapestries. ( I know, this is the same photo I used last week, but it is late and I'm too tired to go find another)

The word Tapestry, then,  allows me to be  specific and general at the same time.

And calling myself a Tapestry Weaver gives me  
the freedom of limitation inherent in the structure
as well as some built-in ​elbow room for experimentation,
which is how I work best.

Picture
Face; Needlepoint; Hand Spun Wool; cotton canvas; Indigo; ©Sarah C. Swett
Many of the old textile words have this quality -- structure and elbow room together--
and I love how such 
words can glow with the patina of  centuries
even as the things we do with them changes daily.  

PictureWalking the Walk (detail) 5" x 4.25"; tapestry; embroidery; wool; indigo ©Sarah C. Swett 2015

I also love the specificity of  these words, and the astonishing things when the specific action implied by the word  is coupled with unexpected approaches  -- some of the blackwork  I've recently seen on Pinterest, for instance, is astonishing.

​Of course it may be that my passion for tapestry, sewing, knitting, embroidery and other such  rich words is because I am writing them on blog, on  a computer, through the internet and my soul longs for and clings to the things over which I have some control, have been here for a long time and most importantly, reference yarn.
Because I do love yarn.



​
Which in turn reminds me that
despite all these ways of messing around with ideas,
all work is new
and all work is old
and ideas keep going round and round.  


And perhaps that is what semantics is about.
Picture
Apple; Hand Woven Tapestry; hand spun wool warp and weft; ©Sarah C. Swett

One Thing Leads To Another

11/17/2015

 
Picture
PLUS
Picture
EQUALS
Picture
FRONT ©Sarah C. Swett 2015
Picture
BACK 6 1/2" x 4 1/4" Indigo, Walnut; 4 1/4 x 4 1/4 Lichen

The thick tapestry fabric
means it is possible
to keep the 
​embroidered image
entirely on one side
Picture

Stuff I'm experimenting with:
​
materials,
 sett,
plies,
warp twist
 weft twist
(amount and direction).
plus
 trying to decide if it is 
more pleasant
to stitch before
or after
wet finishing.
Picture
"Relax! The water is fine!"
I'll report back when I have some conclusions.

For the moment,
I can say that
 I love the feel and handle of tapestry
when the fibers have had a chance to relax in warm water.


Also, that wet finishing 
is possible (indeed perfectly normal)
because I dye all the yarn
using a limited palette,
and rinse  well.
​

Picture
rubia tinctorium and rubia cordifolia
 I've handled most of the yarn since it was fleece,
so each skein is a familiar friend.
Picture
I haven't done any dyeing in ages so apologize ​for my inability to stop posting photos.
Picture
Picture
It'll be interesting to see how this stitching/ tapestry thing will evolve,
Picture
R. Tinctorium on white yarn (left three) and on grey (right three)
Picture©Sarah C. Swett 2015

But 
not
knowing
 is 
the
point.

​



 Speaking of the unknown, I have added a sign up form.  Weebly, my website and blog provider, does not have their own system for letting you know when I've posted so I'm trying Mail Chimp and for that to work you have to put your email address in the mailing list form on the right at the top of the page (or maybe on the bottom if you're on a phone). I totally get if you have signed up for too many things and don't want to, but I've had requests and it seemed worth a try.
My hope is to send out a newsletterish email now and again (maybe once a month?) with links to recent blog posts and hopefully some new content -- maybe instructional stuff or coloring pages or gosh, I don't know. Do you?  
I've just opened up the comments so if you have ideas of what you'd like to see, do tell me. In the meantime, I'll try to figure out how the newsletter thingy works.  ​Thanks!
Picture
ps  I'm also now on Instagram.  If you too, indulge in the rabbit hole, I'm @sarahcswett

Golly, such interaction with the world!
But friends and fiber are what we have,
​ so do lets enjoy them.

Mitten Season!

11/10/2015

 
Picture
These are my current working mittens.

The blue/green pair I inherited from my son
when they shrank and his hands grew.

The grey and white pair were knit
by my dear friend Rochelle.
"Not to replace the ones you have," 
she assured me,
"but to give you a choice."


Picture
I can't think why.
Picture
 Perhaps she thought
 darning the darned darns
was too much.

Or that not bothering
to snip off​  the end of the yarn,
meant the situation was desperate.

Picture
And perhaps she was right.

But you know how it is--
the wind is howling
the dog needs a walk
your mitten has a hole...
Who has time to take off their boots
and find a pair of scissors?

I'm just grateful
when needle and yarn are at hand.


And that pair was not quite as worn
as the ones they supplanted.
Picture
The mate to the blue one vanished the day we first looked at the house in which we have lived since 1989. The orange pair came along to fill the gap

which I only reluctantly replaced in '96 or so
when my friends gave me a hard time.
"You can't go to a book signing for
the sweater you have in Knitting in America
wearing those."

​Good thing someone is paying attention.


Picture
I  seem to be particularly hard on left palms.
​  Probably the dog leash.  
Picture
My Mittens -- 1988 to present All Hand Spun. Surprise surprise.
Rochelle used a nice strong fleece 
so  I've only had to darn them once so far.
A duplicate stitch darn at that!
 
Of course my dog is old and hardly needs a leash these days.
Picture
Knitting mittens is great, but only when necessary.
I prefer to put my knitting energy into sweaters.

And anyway, I don't want the previous pair
​ to have its feelings hurt.
Picture



​Luckily,
Rochelle and Henry
have been friends
for a long time.
Picture
Note the shift in indigo yarn just above the thumb gusset. I must have run out of one skein--but at least made dye lot switch even!

Henry's mittens, too,
have been knit from necessity 
 using the yarn at hand.
Picture
Fox & Geese & Fences by Robin Hansen; Down East Books; Camden, Maine; 1983
I always use the patterns this book. 
They are great mittens.
Also,  there is never time to find another pattern,
much less design one,
when the kid has grown,
 the mittens have shrunk 
and he asks for another pair.
Now.
Picture

​He realized 
(with just a bit of reluctance)
that even soaking wet
 from soggy snowballs, 
his hands would steam
while his friends' fingers
​ in their fancy black gloves
were freezing.
Picture
I love how the sawtooth pattern
distorts as the palms shrink.
Picture
Looking at life from a mitten perspective
it seems that though I haven't changed much,
 my boy is all grown up.
​
About time I noticed.

Three Books

11/3/2015

 
Traditional Weavers of Guatemala: Their Stories, Their lives
written by Deborah Chandler and Teresa Cordon,
 photographed by Joe Coca,
​ has kept me enthralled for weeks.
Picture

It is a visual and narrative treat.
Indeed, I am somewhat embarrassed
to post my photos

as they are such a poor imitation of the actual book.
​

But I guess we'll have to put up with the blunt tools
at hand, for that is what I have just now.
Picture
And happily, this book reminds me how tools:
 loom, spindle, shovel, camera,
​are only the beginning.
Picture
To state the obvious, at least to you, my dear maker readers,
it is hand wielding them
 that makes all the difference between
the mediocre
​and the glorious.
Picture
And this book is filled with the glorious.
. 
There are descriptions of technique throughout -- 
 things I have never seen (much less understood),
Doubled sided brocade, for instance.

There are colors
and artisans talking, in detail, about color choices.

Picture
And there are
 lives.  

I read of  years
filled with yarn and 
 precise technique.

 I learned of
loss and renewal
and family
​and connection.




​Some of the stories are hard.
 Guatemalan history has been 
fraught with human and natural disaster.
And yet it is the intertwining 
of circumstance and artistry,
of controlled skill and uncontrollable events
that make the book so good.

Picture
Traditional Weavers of Guatemala
 (published by THRUMS )
is also a wonderful reminder
Picture
 that skill,
and dedication to improving it,

can see us through
no matter where we live.
Picture
Reading at home
with spindle in hand
I  feel fortunate to be connected,
​ if tenuously,
and only by a thread
to weavers opening sheds, everywhere. 

(Yeah, I know. Textile metaphors. But what else could I say???)
Picture
The second book I want to mention
Tapestries From Egypt,
 was written and published in 1961.

Picture
Picture
​My copy is tattered,
but the images inside
are fresh and delightful
and the book
 a great companion to​
 the current TEx@ATA Exhibition
Threads of Life, Ramses Wissa Wassef Art Centre, Egypt:
A Journey in Creativity
​curated by Ikram Nosshi
and Susanne Wissa Wassef
​

TEx@ATA, by the way, is the online exhibition program 
of the American Tapestry Alliance
Picture
and in the name of full disclosure
I admit to being the person
responsible for lining up the exhibitions--
​ but please don't let that put you off.
Picture
Picture
 
The ideas of Ramses Wissa Wassef
and the astonishing tapestries (originally woven only by young children with no art training), are vivid, compelling and oh so very satisfying.  

From the Natural Dyes grown on site at the Center
to the fluid, narrative images... 
​
but wait!
Never mind my words.
  Just Click HERE
and you'll be in the midst of it.



Also, if you happen to be in NYC in the near future
I believe you can see (or even buy) Wissa Wassef tapestries at
the Store at Metropolitan Museum of Art 
If you're extra  lucky,
​you might even find a copy of the book somewhere too!


Picture
The third book for today
(and I do apologize for the length of this post-- I fear that if I don't write about all three I'll get distracted by weaving or spinning or embroidery or drawing or some other of the absurd number of things to which I devote my days, and won't get back to it),
is Small Woven Tapestries by Mary Rhodes.
PictureB T Batsford Limited; London
It was published in 1973
​ so is also not a new book.

Picture
Detail from the medieval tapestry, Hunting the Wild Birds, one of a series formerly owned by the Duke of Devonshire, woven in the late fifteenth century.
Most of the images are black and white, 
another reminder of the importance of value in tapestry.
(As if, says anyone who has ever taken one of my tapestry workshops,
she would ever stop talking about it).
Picture
Peruvian Tapestry thought to date to the 6th century AD. Are they not the most captivating creatures?
Rhodes has filled the book with images 
from myriad periods of tapestry history
though mostly from the time in which she wrote.
Picture
Showing me once again
that whether one is in contemporary Guatemala,
or late 20th Century Egypt
or Pre-Incan Peru
or 1970's Britain
or Instagram in 2015
There is not much that is truly new in the world of warp and weft.
Picture
So glad I can spin and read and marvel at the same time. ©Sarah C. Swett 2015
    Picture

    ​Sarah C Swett 
    tells stories
    with
    ​ and about

     hand spun yarn. 


    Picture
    Click for info on
    my four selvedge
    warping class
    with
    ​ Rebecca Mezoff  
    fringeless


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