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scribble mending and magical helpers

4/6/2021

 
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When the sewing machine
your son found for $25
and returned to working order
so your husband could make you the jacket
you wear as you type--
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--prefers the the spools of polyester thread
your adorable ex-grandmother-in-law
included in a care package
back in 1983
(nestled among
dented cans of tuna,
month-old brownies,
and a pile of her favorite Harlequin Romances)
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--thread you have ignored for years
because you are a natural fiber snob
yet still could not bring yourself
to use or discard--
thread that has waited in the back
of your sewing machine drawer--
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--so was more than ready
to take center stage
in the work of resurrecting a quilt--
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--a hand stitched quilt
made you know not when
by you know not  who--
a quilt with very specific demands
 patiently spelled out
back in 2015 when the mending began
)--
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-- well,
when all those things come together
there really is nothing for you to do--
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--but go with it.
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Buttercup Mending

6/27/2017

 
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Does anyone else have a thing about bags -- that deal where you can't imagine leaving home, much less making it through a trip, without having your elemental stuff in the perfect bag?
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Or maybe you think you're set with a  satchel that is comfortable to carry and has room for all the essentials (flashlight, mug,  pocket hang glider, ear plugs, spindle, pencils, dictionary, novel, etc),  but then you start a new project
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that generatesa bunch of material you absolutely MUST have with you at all times to survive whatever the future brings
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which means that the extra large custom spindle case must be called into action
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and the bag you were counting on is too small and the one that might work still needs mending 
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and is not, truth to tell  (thanks to previous scattershot approach to reinforcing disintegrating fabric),
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the most sophisticated thing you've ever made, much less mended?
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Well that never happens to me...
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Today

10/4/2016

 
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fancy lease sticks!
I seem to be out of words.
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Here are a few pics though.
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Picture
Picture
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Polypay Roving from The Yarn Underground.
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Ever wish you had eight arms?
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A hole in my running shoes -- and must remember to order new soles as I'm nearly through --again. Still easier than making a new pair -- though I'd love to.
Freakin' ideas. 

Needlepoint Redux

9/20/2016

 
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Me, 1972 Photo: Steven C. Swett
If I were to claim an historic textile practice,
I would be needlepoint. 
Picture
Me yesterday ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
After nearly 30 years as a tapestry weaver I have spent far more hours in front of a loom than with needle and canvas, 
but for as long as I can remember,
the marriage and yarn and image has been a given,
and that certainty began with with needlepoint.

My grandmother, unless she was driving somewhere very fast in her pink Volkswagen bug or cooking something with lots of butter, always had a piece of stitching (needlepoint or crewel or sometimes knitting), in her hands.
So did (and do) at least two of her five daughters (my aunts, not my mother who was otherwise occupied getting a masters degree, learning to program computers back and teaching mathematics).  Grandma's stitching was an endlessly compelling and yet unknowable backdrop to many of my youthful imaginings. 

Once, in my youthful innocence, I asked her why she stitched other people's drawings instead of making up her own. Apparently that was a ridiculous question,
but I was left with a longing to give form to my own ideas--
if only I could figure out how.


My Mother and Aunts now have most of Grandma's work (rugs, bags and more cushions than I can possibly imagine), but I've never needed the physical manifestation of her stitching to know that, should I ever need it, permission to draw with yarn and needle was already granted. 
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Dress Detail-- embroidery--cotton - 1981
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Shirt Detail --embroidery--cotton-- 1980
Not, of course, that one should make a career out of it.
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Book Bag (detail). Needlepoint; hand spun wool (mostly Coopworth); natural dyes; cotton canvas. ©Sarah C. Swett 2006
Except, well, I did.
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Spinning Fire (work in progress); Open Canvas Needlepoint; hand spun wool; natural dyes; ©Sarah C. Swett 2006
For all the goodness that has come from tapestry and knitting however,
 stitching on canvas has remained in the background--
a secret hobby the mere mention of which causes some tapestry weavers to draw back in horror if the two words appear in the same sentence.
 "Needlepoint is NOT Tapestry!!!!!" 
Of course it is not.
 But neither is it a lesser medium. 
(It probably has not escaped your notice that my needlework and  tapestries look an awful lot alike....)
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Truth to tell, for most of my tapestry life, other than mending and sewing the occasional garment,  there hasn't been time for needlepoint.
In the midst of constant weaving, knitting, teaching, spinning, dyeing, drawing, hanging out with my husband and son and doing the dishes, the last thing I needed was another thing.
Indeed, I don't recall quite why I picked up needle and canvas 10 or 11 years ago,
though I know a conversation with Sarah Haskell about  embracing the grid of warp and weft (she loved it, I spent my weaving life trying to defy it),  had something to do with it, as did learning about Knotted Pile from Sara Lamb.
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I do remember that the desire was fierce and immediate, and that the moment I found a piece of blank canvas I snatched every second to stitch, enthralled by the sound of the yarn swishing through holes, riveted by the the glow of the stitches -- so different from tapestry even though I was using the same yarn. ​
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Stripes l; 60" x 40"; Needlepoint Comics; Wool, cotton, hemp, natural dyes ©Sarah C. Swett 2007
I made some bags, and cushions (as one does).
Then I began to study comics.
And that, for a time, was that.
Picture
Stripes ll; 60" x 40"; Needlepoint Comics; Wool, cotton, hemp, natural dyes ©Sarah C. Swett 2007
Stitching, sewing, storytelling,
dyeing, drawing, dreaming,
 wild and magical and playful freedom to do as I pleased --
I'd never seen or done anything quite like it before.
When not tied up in knots about where the story was going
or how best to tell it once I knew,
I was entirely at my ease. 
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Stripes ll (detail) ; Needlepoint Comics; Wool, cotton, hemp, natural dyes ©Sarah C. Swett 2007

 Needlepoint Comics provided a kind of elbow room I was not, at the time, getting with tapestry, 
though those familiar with my work may notice that Stripes is connected to the tapestry book Casting Off, picking up where that book ends.
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Stripes lll; 60" x 40"; Needlepoint Comics; Wool, cotton, hemp, natural dyes ©Sarah C. Swett 2007
None of this stuff happens in isolation.
In fact, most of the work on these comics took place as I was writing the novel that would become the Rough Copy series of tapestries -- sequential narrative finding its way into tapestry in a different form.
When I began to actually weave those 13 pieces though, I had neither time nor creative energy for  anything else -- and certainly not something as demanding and compelling as needlepoint.
Picture
But now I'm back.
And it was those tapestries that are responsible --
 the addiction to words that was not entirely (even remotely) cured by weaving them,
led to unscripted writing at the loom (no cartoon),
which generated an idea that I might be able to write longer sentences on a backstrap loom,
and sucked me down the rabbit hole I'm currently in (discussed in myriad previous blog posts),
and then the lightbulb moment (lights are good down in rabbit holes),
that I have been weaving the linen grid I longed for back when I was making those giant comics panels above, but couldn't figure out how to do without a floor loom. 
Sometimes I am so dense.
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 Now, alas, I've gone on and on,
​the work is calling
and I have not addressed the technical aspects of the thing
-- yarn, sett, materials etc--
which is what I meant to talk about.
Ah well.
Maybe next time.
​I'll know more by then anyway.

See ya!

What's in a distraction?

9/13/2016

 
Picture
detail: Rough Copy, the comic
​
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Fatal Distraction drawn for for Tapestry Topics, the newsletter for the American Tapestry Alliance ©Sarah C. Swett
But what does work look like? 
And how can you identify a distraction when you meet it?
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Stripes II (detail); Needlepoint comic wool/ cotton/ natural dyes ©Sarah C. Swett
What are distractions anyway, if not the first tiny steps -
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Rough Copy, the comic (detail)
in pursuit of a dream?
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Where they begin
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and where they go
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Stripes III (detail). Needlepoint comic - wool/ cotton/ natural dye ©Sarah C. Swett
(if anywhere at all)
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is the great mystery.
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Adult Beginners.... ©Sarah C. Swett 2014
But the only way to find out, is to begin.
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Off The Wall

4/5/2016

 
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It is my belief that every tapestry has the right
to move and sway and spin.
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My first tapestry Mobile. Dimensions on the slide. Remember slides? Remember the little dot in the corner? Feels like a long time ago. I miss them.
Indeed, freeing my tapestries from strictures
​is what you might call a long term goal.
Picture
Tapestry Mobile (detail); Hand Woven Tapestry; Hand Spun Wool; ©Sarah C. Swett 1997
Not that it is often realized.

Tapestries  end up on walls more often than not
(and look darned good while they are about it).
Picture
Concertina Face; 4 1/2" x 3 1/2"; Hand Woven Tapestry; Hand Embroidery; hand spun Wool; natural dye; ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
But even when on the wall, they usually have the structural integrity to hang with minimal support and do not need to be stretched or stapled or otherwise confined.

Not that I haven't done all three things to various works over time,
but it always feels like I'm being mean.

Twirling is such fun. 
And cloth is so good at it.
Picture
Getting my work out into the air is made easier for me
because I work in all my weft tails as I go
so the front and back look essentially the same.
(They are not but that is not a topic for today).
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Warming Up; 4" x 5 1/2" ; Hand Embroidery on Hand Woven Tapestry; wool, natural dye; ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
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Of course as per last week's post, the embroidery remains one sided.
I've also been helped by an endless attraction to the thrill of experimentation--
​
a tug toward the open air of weaving techniques I haven't seen before.
Picture
"Front on the Line" from the two part tapestry mobile, "Back to Front". circa 2000
Indeed, to touch on something my friend Summer wrote about in her blog post yesterday,
I  end up spending a lot of time in the guise of a beginner.
Picture
Margin Notes; various sizes; hand woven tapestry; hand spun wool; natural dye ©Sarah C. Swett 2007
Actually, now that I write this, getting the work off the wall has rarely been the primary motivator in pursuing a work, but rather an ever-welcome addition.
​ I started weaving Margin Notes, for instance, as a response to my jealousy
of a character in a novel I was writing: 
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Margin Notes; various sizes; hand woven tapestry; hand spun wool; natural dye ©Sarah C. Swett 2007
My protagonist, Love Miranda, wove  pages and pages of long narrow tapestries before I had to stop writing to copy her. Only later, as they hung in the middle of a room so you could move through them as though through a forest, the tapestries responding to whoever came by as that person responded to them-- like a dance-- did I see how much I wanted that too.
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Margin Notes; various sizes; hand woven tapestry; hand spun wool; natural dye ©Sarah C. Swett 2007
Sadly, I never wove enough to get the full effect,  but you should have seen how fabulous they looked in the story. ​
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Casting Off: A Comic in Seven Tapestries -Pages 2-3; 10" x 10" x 2"; wool, natural dye, cotton/ hemp, thread ©Sarah C. Swett 2009
Tapestry books are another way to escape the dreaded frame,
the reader getting to touch each page in its turn
​and experience ​the heft and fluidity of this amazing cloth.
One of these days, I'll return to these.  
​When the time is right.
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Untitled as Yet; Tapestry Mobile in progress; Wool, Stone, Fishing Swivels; Contorted Filbert
Isn't it great how ideas circle around?
Nearly 20 years after that first mobile,
I'm exploring the form again.
Picture
Making Mobiles by Guy R. Williams; Emerson Books, Inc. New York 1969
When I started writing this morning I thought I'd end up getting into some of the reasons I find frames claustrophobic.  but I think I'll save that for another day
It's all just so interseting.
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Circular Knitting; 5 1/2" x 4" ; Hand Embroidery on Hand Woven Tapestry; Wool, Natural Dye; ©Sarah C. Swett 2016

Stitching on Tapestry (a short guide to an experiment)

3/29/2016

 
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Warming Up; 3 3/4" x 5 1/2" ; Hand Embroidery on Hand Woven Tapestry; Wool, Natural Dye; ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
First, weave a tapestry.
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Two Ply (mostly) Cormo X; sett 9 epi.
Next,
Decide if you can bear to sully its inherent perfection
with another medium.

 Sometimes I can't.  
Sometimes I must.

 I have never liked mixing my media.
(Never Mix Never Worry...)
But as I've mentioned before,
some ideas are hell bent on having their way.
Picture
So in I go.

1. Draw , or trace a drawing, onto rice paper.
Note: It'd be nice if I could specify what kind of rice (or maybe mulberry) paper,
but I'm using scraps left over from some else's printing class 
and it is unlabeled.  Perhaps you can tell by looking?
At any rate, it is semi-translucent, flexible and strong..
In my first experiments I used cheap tracing paper
but it crumbled beneath my needle.

  I read somewhere that tissue paper works, but don't have any.

​2. 
Baste the sketch to the tapestry with thickish cotton thread
-- something that is strong, easy to see and easy to pull out--
then start stitching along the lines of your sketch with wool yarn and running stitch.
Picture
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Note that my running stitches do not go through to the back of the tapestry
but stay just under the top surface .
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3. When all the lines are in place, gently tear away the rice paper,
one shape at a time.  Bigger shapes are easier than small ones.
​This is a fiddly process.  Tweezers can be helpful.
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On the right arm there is some double running stitch -- I do this when I need to retrace my steps but don't want to stop and restart the length of yarn.
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4. When the paper is all gone, the lines can be further defined
and the shapes filled in.
​ I generally pause at this point.
​
In love with the simple dotted lines
it sometimes takes a day or two before I'm ready to 'color in' the shapes.
Once started though, it is hard to stop.
Picture
I used needle weaving for the pants and chain stitch for the sweater
The colored stitching stays on one surface of the tapestry
though as you can see below, it shows through if I've not been super careful
Also note the slight drawing in of the tapestries where there is lots of embroidery on the other side.
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Warming Up (detail); 3 3/4" x 5 1/2"; Hand Embroidery on Hand Woven Tapestry. Hand Spun Wool; Natural Dye. ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
 I often get carried away with the pleasure of needle and yarn,
but find less is generally more to my liking.
​
In the image below, a few solid lines
and  a little detached buttonhole stitch
​was all that was required.
Some works want even less than that.
Picture
I Could, But I Don't Want To; 4 1/4" x 4"; Hand Embroidery on Hand Woven Tapestry; Hand Spun Wool; Natural Dye; ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
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Juggling (detail); 6 1/2" x 4"; Hand Embroidery on Hand Woven Tapestry; Hand Spun Wool; Natural Dye; ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
Despite the signs that said, "Here Be Sharks"
this project has been compelling and refreshing

-both the weaving and and the stitching-
but now I have to pause,


take stock of the 40+ little tapestries I've accumulated in the last months
and figure out how on earth I'm going to mount them (or at least some of them)
for my show in June.

Honestly, I have only the vaguest of ideas, 
but, as ever, not knowing is the fun of it all.
​Or it will be once I start messing around.

​
I think.
Picture
Picture
Chinook: 6 1/2" x 4"; Hand Embroidery on Hand Woven Tapestry; Hand Spun Wool; Natural Dye; ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
ps. Before I hit 'post', it suddenly seems like a good idea to mention a few favorite books about stitching-and people-who-embroider.  There are, of course, myriad how-to stitching books out there, basic instructions and ways to think about stitching as an artist, but not so many that delve into the theory of embroidery.

Here are some links :
The Subversive Stitch by Rozsika Parker
Celebrating The Stitch by Barbara Lee Smith
Hand Stitch Perspectives and Machine Stitch Perspectives
both by Alice Kettle and Jane McKeating
Also a monograph on the artist Audrey Walker that I think I got from the Selvedge magazine bookstore, but am not sure. 

In making these links (and I apologize for using Amazon, but it is an easy way to get the information across) , I see that my copy of Subversive Stitch is out of date as it has been re-issued with new material, a new cover and a new high price.  Also, Celebrating The Stitch can be had for one American Penny (plus shipping). 

In going through my book collection, I found that I have more books on stitching than I have on tapestry weaving, but more catalogs of tapestry exhibitions. This probably just means that there ARE more books about stitching than tapestry, and more embroiderers than tapestry weavers.  But does it also mean that there are more tapestry exhibitions?  
Probably not. 

What are your favorites? Do tell!!

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Scraps

3/1/2016

 
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A number of years ago, I inherited a suitcase full of linens from my Grandmother.
There were damask napkins and linen placemats, monogrammed hankies and cocktail napkins, all beautifully stitched, finished with needle lace, drawn thread embroidery, hem stitching and other techniques I don't know the names of (much less how they were done).
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Unlike my Grandmother's  silver, paintings and jewelry, these exquisite pieces of cloth were uncontested, my sister and I the only grandchildren to even notice them.
Simultaneously gleeful and mournful, we 'rescued' these gorgeous things from whatever fate might have had in store for them had we left them there.
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My plan, at the time, was to use them as ground fabric for embroidery--
such lovely cloth (edges already finished), cried out for imagery.
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Or so I thought.
But after one attempt, I found myself paralyzed.
I'd get something out, turn it this way and that,
imagine drawing with needle and yarn,
then put it away. 
​
At first I thought it was because I wasn't all that interested, 
stitching a short-lived distraction from tapestry with no staying power. 
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It turns out, however, that embroidery doesn't work like that for me.
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 Exquisite fabric demands perfect stitching,
or at least a plan,  and my deliberately messy, spontaneous needlework is more at home on bits and scraps where I am free to change my mind -- about stitches, about yarn, about whatever it is that I have to say.
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 Those lovely pieces of inherited fabric
needed nothing and my ministrations would not improve their inherent perfection.
​ 
An torn sheet or a worn out shirt, on the other hand,
a scrap left over from some sewing project -these are filled with potential.

And I can't make them any worse.


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Picture
This is probably why I'm not a quilter. 
Pristine yardage is  lovely already  and cutting it to bits only to sew it together again
​makes my scissors shake. 
Perhaps it is also why I am a weaver and knitter.
With those techniques I can build fabric the exact size I need for whatever I have in mind.
As, indeed, I can build an phrase out of scraps. 
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Picture
Sometimes I worry about the linens in the suitcase.
I don't, after all, want them to feel abandoned.
So now and again I heat up my iron and give them a little press with lots of steam,
admire their sheen and think of ways I might put them to work.
Then I roll them neatly (don't want permanent creases in the folds), and put them away.

One of these days perhaps I'll start eating my granola on one of the placemats,
 accidentally slop some tea in one corner then wipe blackberry juice from my mouth with my great grandmother's monogram.
Loosen them up.  Loosen me up. 
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Until then, I'll continue to delve into my scrap basket and see what shows up.
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No Iron, No Internet

2/9/2016

 
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Sampling (detail). Embroidery on Resist Dyed Wool Felt; wool, cotton, natural and synthetic dye.
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Keeping Track (detail 1); Embroidery; wool, linen, cotton, natural and synthetic dye
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Keeping Track (detail 2); Embroidery; wool, linen, cotton, natural and synthetic dye
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Keeping Track (detail 3); Embroidery; wool, linen, cotton, natural and synthetic dye

Face It

1/19/2016

 
Picture
Concertina Face ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
Faces have been making me crazy for decades
​but I can't seem to stop working with them.
Picture
Pizzicato ©Sarah C. Swett 2009
In the past, I've gone for extremes -- a portrait, or almost no features at all.
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I Dunno ©Sarah C. Swett 2003
I am not, by nature, a portraitist so getting 
​ three people 'right' in one tapestry was definitely cause for celebration. 
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The River Wyrd 48" x 36" ©Sarah C. Swett 2004
Easier, by far, to skip the features,
especially in small work where less is often more,
though viewers are sometimes confused by this.
"Where is her face?" they ask.
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Casting Off Page 3 ©Sarah C. Swett 2009
"Sometimes," I reply, "a face distracts from the story."

At other times, emptyness is the point.
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Warp Face ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
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Dancing to the Sea 48" x 92" ©Sarah C. Swett 1999
This  enormous commission relied on specific faces and
 I spent months worrying if I would get them right.
​
On my next body of work, it was a delight 
 to skip the heads entirely
Picture
Apple 36" x 18" ©Sarah C. Swett 2001
As I write this and look at these images,
I realize that avoiding the trauma/ drama of getting faces 'right' 
was a large factor in my decision to stop accepting commissions.
People wanted to be in their tapestries and they wanted to look like themselves.
Too much pressure for me.
PictureAnywhere Else 9" x 9" ©Sarah C. Swett 2008
Indeed, it was a tremendous relief to focus on my own ideas
and explore ways in which body posture could portray the mood of the moment,

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Rochelle's Back (detail) 24" x 18" ©Sarah C. Swett 2004
Studying comics  added a new dimension to my work
and I found that​ simplifying but not eliminating the features
allowed figures to be both general and specific.
Picture
Bottle of Red 9" x 9" ©Sarah C. Swett 2008
And recently, this business of using embroidery on my tapestries
has made faces positively compelling.

With each one, I'm full of curiosity, impatient to see who will show up.
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How is it that this work can keep grabbing me? 
Picture
Hurrah 7" x 5" ©Sarah C. Swett 2013
  ps.  NEXT WEEK is my stop on the ATA Blog Tour, so I will post  a day later than usual, on Wednesday the 27th, as Wednesdays are blog tour days.
Be sure to stop by Elizabeth Buckley's tomorrow and see what she has to say


​
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