a field guide to needlework
  • Tapestry
    • 1994 - 1999
    • 2000 - 2003
    • 2004 - 2007
    • 2008 - 2009
    • 2009 - 2012
    • 2013 - 2015
    • 2016 part one
    • 2016 - 2017
    • 2018
    • 2019
    • 2020
    • 2021
    • 2022
    • 2023
    • 2024
  • Newsletter
  • Store
  • Blog 2014-2021
  • About
  • Comics
    • Fatal Distraction
    • Manuscript Revised
    • Stripes
    • Enid and Crow >
      • Enid and Crow: Days In The Life
      • Enid and Crow: The Peregrinations
      • Enid and Crow: Color Choices
      • Enid and Crow: Carried Away
      • Enid and Crow: Somewhere!

and....instead of but

11/10/2020

 
Picture
Lots of things happened in 2016 --
not least
that I  built 
my first backstrap loom.
Picture
Though probably not directly connected,
this elemental tool 
has helped to see me through
some of the other world-rocking
​ events and emotions of the last years--
the reverberations of which,
(as you might have noticed yourself...),
have yet to settle down.
Picture
For these years have
 asked-- nay, demanded 
so very much --
​not least
the development of
new levels of fortitude--
Picture
-- a massive amount of trust
in some absurdly fragile-appearing 
​threads of connection--
Picture
--and even some heart-expanding joy
when the  threads 
​actually hold.
Picture
So it is with a peculiar kind of curiosity
that I remembered, just now,
that it has been just over four years
since I first leaned back against 
my needlepoint strap--
and to spend some time thinking about
what has happened to me
​since then.
Picture
Backstrap Dialogues p. 34
Of course it was tapestry
that started it--
the desire to begin weaving
with a single word
and follow it, letter by letter,
wherever the unfolding idea chose to go--
a deeply unsettling thing 
for a person given to weaving
from  carefully composed cartoons
(and thus even more worth pursuing).
Picture
The idea of plain plain weave, however
never crossed my mind.

Well, not until
the very second warp anyway.

And then --
well then I was a bit of a mess for a time.
A happy mess to be sure--
bounding back and forth
between delicious, weft-faced text
and luminous, drapy, open cloth--
yet also thoroughly confused
and bemused
by my new divided attention.

Luckily, I blogged about it at the time.
​(three 2016 posts: One, Two, Three),
then wrote  Backstrap Dialogues,
in order to dig even deeper
into what felt, in the moment
like uncertain direction.

"Who am I
to enjoy both of these?"
Picture
There were days, indeed,
when my head
felt as divided and divisive
as this country--
a place where "and" was not a thing--
my internal state
 as seemingly unreconcilable
(and sometimes downright cruel)
as the national mood.
Picture
Backstrap Dialogues, page 9
Four years,
many many many yards of cloth
and more miles of yarn
than I can even begin to count later, 
much has changed--
​and much has not.
Picture
 As thrilled as ever
​by the breadth of possibility
inherent in the simple tools,
I now don't think twice about using

un-sized, super fine singles as warp.

Picture
Backstrap Dialogues, page 12
And in endless, in-depth conversations,
Luminist and Storymaker--
though sometimes not as polite
as they might be--
have, over time,
come to realize how
interdependent they actually are,
and to make space for
techniques, ideas and materials
one or the other
might once have disdained 
(or, more truly, never even considered:
coffee filters? wedge weave? milkweed?
tapestry book covers? nettle baskets?).
Picture
Two Blue Houses (detail in process); hand woven tapestry; balanced plain weave weave; milkweed; backstrap loom
Though not always been a cakewalk 
(as you might imagine),
even my tradition-bound inner Storymaker
has begun to concede
that tales can be told 
in many ways--
narrative, light and local materials 
coexisting
in a single swathe of cloth.
Picture
And​ at least some of the time, 
​in a single human as well.
​
(Or heddle -- Margaret, with her sweet, bemused smile,

is pretty much up for anything--
the more untried, the better).
Picture
Two Blue Houses (detail in process); hand woven tapestry; balanced plain weave weave; milkweed; backstrap loom
I can only hope, now,
that the same might soon (someday?) 
be said ​for this entire country.
Picture
For I do so hope,
 along with the 
unmitigated joy,
brought by final ballot counts,

that civility, kindness
​and attempts at being helpful
might be possible 
in our government
and amongst ourselves.
Picture
Two Blue Houses; hand woven tapestry; balanced plain weave weave; milkweed; backstrap loom; 38" x 1.25"
Or, at the very least
that we can remember
that taking turns
is a thing.

Triumph of the Unexpected

10/20/2020

 
Picture
Milkweed fiber (gathered green); winter squash shell
When I was 12 or 13
I learned to sew clothing.
It was a bribe from my mother--
"If you do such-and-such
without complaining any more
you can also take that class
at the fabric store."
Picture
Naturally, I totally went for it.
I mean, I was longing to sew properly:
​
--to master 
zippers and waist bands,
 the matching of plaids,
the smooth fitting of sleeves and facings,
the interpretation and adjustment of patterns

--to have real projects
and a proper reason
to  work with the sewing machine


--to understand the fabric itself
and know intuitively
​how to make the perfect choices

​--to make the garments of my dreams
Picture
As for the other half of the bribe--
(the thing I was being bribed to do),
well, I was a kid and well used to
enduring things I disliked
 while looking attentive
 and absorbing the necessary
 to regurgitate later
​in an acceptable form--
all while truly focusing 
on the pile of possibility
waiting at home
on the card table
by the sewing machine.
Picture
dogbane cordage; milkweed cordage; indigo
It is a useful skill--
pretending to be attentive I mean--
if not nearly as useful,
as the one that came
from the sewing class.
Picture
Milkweed cordage four selvedge (Fringeless) warp
I say  "the one" 
because though I went on to make
many many garments over 
the next few years,'

my sewing skills
never grew beyond the serviceable.
Indeed, though I continue to
make, wear and mend 

a large portion of my current wardrobe,
the shaping of my favorite fitting garments
is accomplished with knitting needles
rather than darts.
And matching plaids?
Maybe in my next life.
(And really, who but a thirteen year old
would think that she could
totally understand sewing
after six lessons 
in which she made
one lopsided
if beloved
​ skirt?)

And as a reader of this blog,
you'll know well
that true understanding of cloth
is as elusive for me as ever --
​thank goodness.
Picture
Milkweed cordage for warp and weft
No, the skill I revere--
the one I rely on
more than any other,
find myself using,
 and (hopefully) honing
every
single
day--
Picture
Milkweed cordage (white); untwisted willow bark (green); boiled willow bark cordage (brown)
 is noticing:

--the light on my laundry
--that empty winter squash shell
(baked and scooped)
sitting by the compost bucket
--the rhythm of the first half
of this sentence (if not the second),
--the glint of a strand of fiber
lifting from a drooping stalk

--the gut-settling satisfaction
of said strand twisting
 almost of its own accord
then settling into a warp
--the awkward feel (and lovely look)
of untwisted willow bark.
Picture
making weft in the moment..
It's not just noticing though.
There are the added bits
of noticing that I noticed--
then noticing what I noticed--
and then believing it all--
that make this useful.

And that is was what I learned
from sewing class.

Actually, it wasn't  in class
that  all that noticing occurred.
In class I was concentrating 
(​of course).
The noticing happened
when I was at home
alone
​with the materials.
Picture
Milkweed Tapestry #1; milkweed, willow bark
There I stood by the card table,
(still wearing my scratchy

pink and grey herringbone school uniform
with the matching pilled pink polyester shirt,
falling down blue cabled knee socks,
and thick, brown leather shoes
with the slitted flaps to cover the laces),
my hand on that pile of possibility:

-- slightly rough
blue cotton cloth,
-- pattern pieces carefully cut
(notches and everything),
with the crinkly paper
still pinned in place
-- unsullied spool
of coordinating thread
--empty bobbin 
--sharp, new, orange-handled
Fiskars sewing shears,
my first private pair
which no one else
(on pain of who knew what)
was allowed to touch
FOR ANY REASON WHATSOEVER--

​and I thought:
Picture
Paper Peplum #1 (detail): hand knit used coffee filters (Melita, bleached) plied with mill spun linen singles; wire; apple wood; Milkweed Tapestry #1; Milkweed; Willow Bark
"This--
 is a thing I like--
more than anything
--
this cloth--
this idea--
this almost--
this about to--

this liking
and it is mine."
Picture
Paper Peplum #1: hand knit used coffee filters (Melita, bleached) plied with mill spun linen singles; wire; apple wood; Milkweed Tapestry #1; Milkweed; Willow Bark
Bombarded as I was then
(with adult's ideas
of what I should do),
and as we now are
(with images and ideas 
and material dissatisfaction),
noticing remains, I think,
a hard skill worth honing --
even if following the results 
sometimes get me in a lot of bother,
not least, sitting out in the cold woodshed
for days --nay weeks--
scraping away at stemmy stalks
all for a few grams of fiber
for I don't know what.

And today,
instead of writing a sensible and useful critique
of my milkweed tapestry experiment
to go with the photos 
I couldn't resist taking this morning
​because the light was so lovely, 
I've ended up following
a wild hare across the moor
and into the past
and now I'm going to spend
the rest of the afternoon
trying to remember
what those shoes with the flaps are called
(do you know?)
PictureVessel of possibility: Milkweed; volunteer Winter Squash shell

Then again--
I don't' yet know how I feel
about the milkweed tapestry
(or even if I like the tapestry itself
as much as I liked it half way through),
and today,
as back then,
I can notice best
when I'm all by myself.

So thank you
 for reading all the way down--

though I suppose you're not here
for my material consistency
or word/image coordination anyway.
​

And maybe, indeed,
you have a card table moment
of your own.

blue-struck

10/6/2020

 
Picture
Indigo; willow bark; coffee filters; milkweed
Though not a truth
universally acknowledged--
Picture
willow bark: dried (right); dried then boiled in washing soda water (left); dried, boiled as above then dyed with indigo (center)
it sometimes happens
​that here in the studio--
(or just outside 

where drips can be ignored,
Picture
giant balls of willow
serve as handy
oxidizing racks,
Picture
and days unfold
at the whim
​of whatever materials
place themselves
​in my hands),
Picture
willow oxidizing ball-- inside view
 those self-same materials,
now and again,
find themselves
​ in want

of the color blue.
Picture
So blue
is the thing
​that happens.
Picture
Milkweed cordage -- two values of indigo (multiple dips).
Now a few phrases back
(somewhere in the midst
of a lengthy parenthetical aside),
I used the word whim,
as though flax, milkweed,
willow, walnut and wool
are full of caprice,
individually and collectively
leading me ​this way and that--
Picture
boiled willow bark; indigo
-- a cohort of cheeky puppeteers
tugging at my hand
​and heart strings,
as I,
the marionette,
dance to their tune.
Picture
And it might well be so.
The materials don't feel
even remotely passive,
and I have no idea
where this is all heading--
or why, suddenly

(in the midst of other plans),
everything needed to be blue.

Picture
Wrist cordage (right to left); boiled willow bark after two months on my wrist; milkweed after two months; boiled, indigo willow bark after one day.
Indeed, after decades
of thinking myself ​in charge
​ of the materials I select
​and the stories I tell--
Picture
Milkweed cordage, (green gathered and winter retted) approx 1700 - 2000 yards per pound; indigo
it feels past time
to acknowledge--
or even more,
​ to relish--
the reciprocal nature
of these things that I do--
that we all do--
Picture

and to put​ whatever
knowledge 
and skills
I have gathered

(ever noticing
​ to my delight and chagrin,
how very little I actually know),
in service to
this cooperative venture.
​
So, blue it was.
​And now?
Picture
"Now,"
says the Praying Mantis,
"you can go away
and make some more cordage
with those busy busy hands of yours
while I return
to admiring the view."
Picture

a few things a person can do with cordage

9/8/2020

 
Picture
Milkweed Cordage: winter retted and fresh;
Wrap it
​
around a stick,

or a  rock,
Picture
Iris leaf cordage; rock from the shores of Lake Pend Oreille; shelf of oddments
or a shell.
Picture
field retted Milkweed cordage gathered and twisted in Vermont in June; Mussel Shell from the coast of Oregon; hand spun blanket
Experiment with  knotless netting--
Picture
Willow Bark cordage; Dog bed
--handily worked with a needle--
Picture
Nettle cordage; typewriter case
--so cordage and object
evolve together.
Picture
Willow Bark light catcher; hand; wall
Toss in a basket or box.
Picture
Milkweed, Flax and Dogbane in various states of twist; Iris leaf and Willow basket; Cardboard box
Bind a book--
Picture
Dogbane cordage; Coptic binding; assorted basement paper; wedge weave tapestry (coffee filter yarn; indigo)
--and keep it snug.
Picture
comic diary; same materials as above; hand spun blanket (suffolk fleece; backstrap woven strips)
Arrange by value.
Picture
Iris and Daylily cordage; workbench
Weave a tapestry.
Picture
The Promise Of Rain (in progress); hand woven tapestry; Iris and Daylily leaves; Flax; Indigo
Study  history.
Picture
"The Invisible Sex" by J.M. Adovasio, Olga Soffer & Jake Page p. 181
Call it warp--
Picture
Flax, Milkweed, Nettle; hand carved heddle (unknown wood from basement); clamp; workbench
and experiment with band-weaving.
Picture
warp faced band in progress; heddle; cotton skirt; assorted background plants, books, bills, quilts, computer etc
Conduct longevity tests--
Picture
left to right: fresh Milkweed; winter retted Milkweed; Willow Bark; Dogbane; Nettle (double-twisted); left wrist; Hepty spindle; Targhee/Debouillet fleece
--and admire 
the miracle
for months
(and counting).
​

Milkweed --what can I say?

9/1/2020

 
Picture
As you probably can tell--
we're continuing to have
​ a great time.
Picture
field retted milkweed from last fall, soaked, stripped from the core and ready for a gentle scraping of the outer bark
At least I am.
Though I still know so little

Indeed, though I can, apparently
describe a few actions:
"here we did this
​and there we tried that"--
Picture
milkweed fibers with outer bark scraped off
( I've captioned a few photos
with a bit of what​ has happened so far--
 though ​NONE of it,
I hasten to say,
​ is definitive),
Picture
right to left: Milkweed fibers from photo above, dry (approx. 7 stalks); similar amount gently combed; washed and re-combed
​ ​--my attempts
to sum things up 
are coming to naught.
Picture
long fibers layered between pieces of mesh, stitched in place to keep from shifting, gently washed with soap then rinsed.
And really, how could I know
if the approach we took on such and such a day
​with a batch of last year's stalks
(very little of which I had time to process
back then when it was fresh)--
Picture
the fibers are stiff and elegantly shiny when dry
--will hold tomorrow
​when I have slowed down still more
and had my prejudices exposed
yet again
by this toughly gentle plant?
Picture
Washed fibers after combing, organized by length
In these photos, for instance,
having combed and re-combed
for consistency,
I documented the careful separation 
of the fibers by length.
It seemed a good idea at the time,
for is't that how a person is supposed to learn--
documenting the evidence
for later perusal,
​critique and summation?

And isn't it essential to 
show my work?
Picture
longest fibers, twisted by hand
Also, this is the process I used
with the batch of fresh stalks
​I wrote about here and here
and though I didn't outline each step
my categorizing brain
had already decided 
this was THE WAY TO DO IT.
​You can see the resulting skeins
neatly laid out below
​(and captioned!)
Picture
Milkweed yarn from fresh stalks; front to back: 1 & 2= hand twisted cordage with long and medium fibers mixed; 3 & 4 = combed and spun with distaff and cross arm spindle--longest then medium fibers; 5 & 6 - carded and spun from rolags with cross arm spindle, plied and singles; all skeins boiled for approx 1 hr in water with a couple of T of washing soda
Except --
this life is not
 an algebra exam.
There is no paper to write,
no quiz.
 I'm not applying for a grant,
or, indeed, waiting for any power
to give their nod of approval
and tell me I am
(or am not)
doing viable work
in accordance with
some list of measurable criteria. 

(I don't even have to worry
about my permanent record
that loathsome childhood school threat--
"time to tow the line
as everything, from now on,
goes on your permanent record."
Does anyone else remember that?)

Now that I think about it though,
the milkweed itself
may well be taking note.
How else could some processes 
seem so utterly natural
​and others -- just a little off?
The strands, however,
speak directly to my hands,
and neither uses words,
so they generally  do their thing
without connecting 
to the recording device in my brain--
Picture
fresh milkweed; spindle spun on the left, finger twisted on the right
which may well be why
it took me 
ages to notice
that ​"grading" the fiber by length
made me feel kind of icky--
to understand that I was using the ruler
as a kind of 'goodness measure,"

 creating a hierarchy
where none needed to exist--
 imposing my internalized beliefs
and  accompanying judgements
about efficiency, control, and organization
onto a plant that will contentedly grow
by the side of a gravel road,
spaced as it wants to be spaced,

feeding butterflies
and producing amazing fiber---
 all of which is useful.
Picture
It's that idea
​that agriculture isn't a thing
unless the plants
are in rows. 
At any rate,
and for whatever reason,
when I had the good fortune
to get another 7 or so
fresh stalks of  Milkweed
from a friend's "garden waste pile,"
I decided to forgo the combing altogether.

Picture
And the medium sized lengths of fiber,
are twisting into cordage just beautifully,
complimenting the longer pieces
to make the whole
even smoother than it was before.
Picture
What  I'll do with the yarn --
when I'm done--
whenever that will be--
I've absolutely no idea.
 I know for sure today
is that the more time I spend with this fiber
and the slower we go,
the longer I want this part
to last. 
Picture
ps -- because there always seem to be
one or two (or four) more things to say:

1.
A lovely handmade book
about another milkweed relationship:
Poor (Wo)man's Asparagus
by Velma Bolyard


2.
The Nature of Things:
Essays of a Tapestry Weaver

by Tommye McClure Scanlin
will also be out this fall and though
I didn't realize it when listing books last week, 
it is also available for pre-order from your favorite bookseller.
Wonderfully inviting essays on Tommye's design process and tapestry life.

3.
Nettle Fiber Resources
For those of you who have access to Nettles rather than milkweed
Allan Brown shares many resources here and here
and
Sally Pointer has several Nettle Videos. Here's one. 
Of course nettles are not milkweed (as I keep finding out!),
any more than milkweed is flax, 
though apparently, nettle can handle some flax-like techniques!

4.
​And just because:
A marvelous blog by Tracy Hudson --
Thoughtful in all the ways I find satisfying

    Picture

    ​Sarah C Swett 
    tells stories
    with
    ​ and about

     hand spun yarn. 


    Picture
    Click for info on
    my four selvedge
    warping class
    with
    ​ Rebecca Mezoff  
    fringeless


    Categories

    All
    Backstrap
    Books
    Cellulosic Experiments
    Clothes
    Coffee Filter Yarn
    Comics
    Distractions
    Dyeing
    Embroidery
    Hand Spinning
    Knitting
    Linsey Woolsey
    Looping
    Mending
    Milkweed
    Out In The World
    Plain Weave
    PVC Pipe Loom
    Shoes
    Sketchbook
    Slow Literature
    Tapestry
    Textile Tools
    Things To Wear
    Vague Instructions
    Willow

    Archives

    September 2021
    June 2021
    April 2021
    March 2021
    November 2020
    October 2020
    September 2020
    August 2020
    July 2020
    May 2020
    April 2020
    March 2020
    February 2020
    January 2020
    December 2019
    November 2019
    October 2019
    September 2019
    July 2019
    June 2019
    May 2019
    April 2019
    March 2019
    February 2019
    January 2019
    December 2018
    November 2018
    October 2018
    September 2018
    July 2018
    June 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    December 2016
    November 2016
    October 2016
    September 2016
    August 2016
    July 2016
    June 2016
    May 2016
    April 2016
    March 2016
    February 2016
    January 2016
    December 2015
    November 2015
    October 2015
    September 2015
    August 2015
    July 2015
    June 2015
    May 2015
    April 2015
    March 2015
    February 2015
    January 2015
    December 2014
    November 2014
    October 2014
    September 2014
    August 2014
    July 2014
    June 2014
    May 2014
    April 2014

things to make:
yarn . music . friends
whatever it is you cannot 

not
begin
Proudly powered by Weebly