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Stitching on Tapestry (a short guide to an experiment)

3/29/2016

 
Picture
Warming Up; 3 3/4" x 5 1/2" ; Hand Embroidery on Hand Woven Tapestry; Wool, Natural Dye; ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
First, weave a tapestry.
Picture
Two Ply (mostly) Cormo X; sett 9 epi.
Next,
Decide if you can bear to sully its inherent perfection
with another medium.

 Sometimes I can't.  
Sometimes I must.

 I have never liked mixing my media.
(Never Mix Never Worry...)
But as I've mentioned before,
some ideas are hell bent on having their way.
Picture
So in I go.

1. Draw , or trace a drawing, onto rice paper.
Note: It'd be nice if I could specify what kind of rice (or maybe mulberry) paper,
but I'm using scraps left over from some else's printing class 
and it is unlabeled.  Perhaps you can tell by looking?
At any rate, it is semi-translucent, flexible and strong..
In my first experiments I used cheap tracing paper
but it crumbled beneath my needle.

  I read somewhere that tissue paper works, but don't have any.

​2. 
Baste the sketch to the tapestry with thickish cotton thread
-- something that is strong, easy to see and easy to pull out--
then start stitching along the lines of your sketch with wool yarn and running stitch.
Picture
Picture
Note that my running stitches do not go through to the back of the tapestry
but stay just under the top surface .
Picture
Picture
3. When all the lines are in place, gently tear away the rice paper,
one shape at a time.  Bigger shapes are easier than small ones.
​This is a fiddly process.  Tweezers can be helpful.
Picture
On the right arm there is some double running stitch -- I do this when I need to retrace my steps but don't want to stop and restart the length of yarn.
Picture
4. When the paper is all gone, the lines can be further defined
and the shapes filled in.
​ I generally pause at this point.
​
In love with the simple dotted lines
it sometimes takes a day or two before I'm ready to 'color in' the shapes.
Once started though, it is hard to stop.
Picture
I used needle weaving for the pants and chain stitch for the sweater
The colored stitching stays on one surface of the tapestry
though as you can see below, it shows through if I've not been super careful
Also note the slight drawing in of the tapestries where there is lots of embroidery on the other side.
Picture
Picture
Warming Up (detail); 3 3/4" x 5 1/2"; Hand Embroidery on Hand Woven Tapestry. Hand Spun Wool; Natural Dye. ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
 I often get carried away with the pleasure of needle and yarn,
but find less is generally more to my liking.
​
In the image below, a few solid lines
and  a little detached buttonhole stitch
​was all that was required.
Some works want even less than that.
Picture
I Could, But I Don't Want To; 4 1/4" x 4"; Hand Embroidery on Hand Woven Tapestry; Hand Spun Wool; Natural Dye; ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
Picture
Juggling (detail); 6 1/2" x 4"; Hand Embroidery on Hand Woven Tapestry; Hand Spun Wool; Natural Dye; ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
Despite the signs that said, "Here Be Sharks"
this project has been compelling and refreshing

-both the weaving and and the stitching-
but now I have to pause,


take stock of the 40+ little tapestries I've accumulated in the last months
and figure out how on earth I'm going to mount them (or at least some of them)
for my show in June.

Honestly, I have only the vaguest of ideas, 
but, as ever, not knowing is the fun of it all.
​Or it will be once I start messing around.

​
I think.
Picture
Picture
Chinook: 6 1/2" x 4"; Hand Embroidery on Hand Woven Tapestry; Hand Spun Wool; Natural Dye; ©Sarah C. Swett 2016
ps. Before I hit 'post', it suddenly seems like a good idea to mention a few favorite books about stitching-and people-who-embroider.  There are, of course, myriad how-to stitching books out there, basic instructions and ways to think about stitching as an artist, but not so many that delve into the theory of embroidery.

Here are some links :
The Subversive Stitch by Rozsika Parker
Celebrating The Stitch by Barbara Lee Smith
Hand Stitch Perspectives and Machine Stitch Perspectives
both by Alice Kettle and Jane McKeating
Also a monograph on the artist Audrey Walker that I think I got from the Selvedge magazine bookstore, but am not sure. 

In making these links (and I apologize for using Amazon, but it is an easy way to get the information across) , I see that my copy of Subversive Stitch is out of date as it has been re-issued with new material, a new cover and a new high price.  Also, Celebrating The Stitch can be had for one American Penny (plus shipping). 

In going through my book collection, I found that I have more books on stitching than I have on tapestry weaving, but more catalogs of tapestry exhibitions. This probably just means that there ARE more books about stitching than tapestry, and more embroiderers than tapestry weavers.  But does it also mean that there are more tapestry exhibitions?  
Probably not. 

What are your favorites? Do tell!!

Picture
Angie Simon
3/30/2016 06:48:11 am

Oh! Here is a lovely post! Thank you for generously sharing your techniques, Sarah. I especially enjoy the photo showing some of your recent work. I'm sure the show will be wonderful and I'm pretty darn excited that I'll be able to view it.

I learned embroidery from various little kits in the late '60's. (And practiced the stitches on blue jeans that I wish I still had in my closet!) I have a few stitch guides on my bookshelf, but I intend to look up your interesting references.

Nancy Kramer
3/30/2016 01:32:39 pm

What a lovely and joyful post. In addition to tweezers to remove the Japanese paper, you might try adding a drop of water to the edge of the line if the paper is resistant. Japanese paper softens and tears easily with some moisture. I have two embroidery books that I love: Erica Wilson's "embroidery bible" simply called Embroidery Book (published in 1973), and Sophie Long's Mastering the Art of Embroidery (2013). You might check out Karen Ann Ruane's blog. Her embroideries are glorious. Thanks for this additional way to experiment with tapestry. Your work always makes me smile.

Sarah
4/5/2016 02:42:04 pm

Thank you Nancy, for that tip. A few drops of water is just my kind of solution. I too, have Erica Wilson's 'bible', and will now check out Sophie Long's book and Karen Ann Ruane's blog. Much appreciated!

Debra A. Price Agrums Sposa link
3/30/2016 10:11:31 pm

Thank you Sarah for your clear and concise guides that you post on all aspects of your work. You are so very generous in your sharing with all of us, and I feel so lucky to have found you. Your work is absolutely delightful, and I look forward to your posts.

Cheryl Silverblatt
4/1/2016 04:21:52 pm

I love that the stitches rest lightly on the surface (mine may have gone through but I'm not sure now) and look beautifully neat and nested. And, this is ambitious embroidery to add to a tapestry -- a lot of stitching. And again, the stitches add a lot (a LOT) to the narrative quality of your work. Inspiring as always. c

Sarah
4/5/2016 02:49:19 pm

Cheryl, your words mean so much, as I hope you know. Thank you.

Luna
4/1/2016 08:13:21 pm

Thank you thank you thank you! Finding your blog has been like finding responses/answers to all those little questions that I've had while teaching myself tapestry weaving. Questions that I didn't know how to express about how to achieve value and gradients and adding surface lines and when not to. And shaping. And size to work on. And material choices and so many others that only come with sitting next to and working with someone with extensive experience in the process and also knows how to share it with kindness and generosity. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

Pamela Hutley
4/3/2016 05:52:22 pm

Such a delightful post Sarah, thank you! Like you I love to collect books relating to my current interests--thank you too for your suggestions. I recently purchased Slow Stitch by Claire Wellesly-Smith published by Batsford 2015. Such a peaceful and inspirational read!
All the best for your exhibition, I would so love to see it!

Sarah
4/5/2016 02:47:34 pm

Thanks Pam! Slow Stitch is on my list. Indeed, I think Henry tried to get it for me for xmas and it was sold out. He got a copy of In The Footsteps of Sheep instead, which was heavenly.

Pam Hutley
4/5/2016 06:56:13 pm

A wonderful read too isn't it! I have just today put my copy out to read again. Now the weather is cooling into Autumn, I need some fair isle and woolly socks to comfort me!

Janet Kovach
4/5/2016 10:59:41 am

4.5.2016 Sarah, have been keeping track of you ever since Melanie Falick's book and you have always been kind enough to answer my questions over here on the East Coast (as has been Rebecca whose online courses I have taken).....I like when you say you mess about but what I want to know is this....are all your weft yarns the same diameters...as in thicker or thinner????? Is this why you have no problems with buckling? Or do you? I have on a long warp at present on my Timbertops cantilever on which I'm weaving small family portraits.....then I will cut each off.....I'm starting to buckle--well, not me but the small tapestry and i'm wondering if this is because all my weft is not a uniform size? do I need to restrict each weft yarn, no matter what color, in the same size?...and should I cut this first one off and retie on when I'm done with this first one rather than just keep rolling around the beam and hope the problem will go away??? I sure would appreciate your advice......your pictorial tapestries look like uniform yarns whereas your messing about embroideries look like you use whatever you want to where ever you want to???
from Janet Kovach in NJ

Sarah
4/5/2016 02:38:49 pm

Hi Janet --I'm sorry you are struggling with buckling on your tapestries. Frustrating! You may well be onto something though, when you worry about using a variety of yarns for your weft. It is possible that you may vary the way you beat the yarn depending on its nature/size, and thus end up with 'extra' in some places or perhaps not enough in others. Certainly some areas of the tapestries may end up thicker than others so when you roll each piece onto the beam the tension will change on the remaining warp which in turn can change the way the weft packs in which in turn can cause more buckling. This is of course, only a guess as I've not seen it in person. If you use eccentric weft and don't get enough in the shed, that can also cause buckling.
I do tend to use a fairly uniform weft . If the yarn i'm using is too thin, I'll use more strands to bring it up to the average size, and I totally avoid yarn that is too thick for my sett. Sometimes I vary the sett based on the yarn I'll be using. Rebecca has some great blog posts (and maybe even videos?) on the relationship between weft size, warp size and sett.
As for the embroidery -- I'm still experimenting like mad though find I prefer a fairly uniform fine yarn (3 - 5000 yards per pound) unless I'm doing laid work/ couching.
Hope this helps!


Comments are closed.
    Picture

    ​Sarah C Swett 
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