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In Praise of Wool Warp

3/8/2016

 
Picture
Hand spun wool (Wensleydale?) approx. 1800 yards/ pound 2 ply (doubled in four selvedge warping); 9 e.p.i.
I had a plan to list all the the things I love about using wool warp for tapestry.
But now that I've put all these photos in place,
 measured the grist of  various yarns on my McMorran Balance,
and written the captions,
it seems self explanatory.
What's not to love?
Picture
Brown Sheep Wool Warp; Singles 1200 yards per pound. 8 epi
But I'll give it a shot anyway. 
Might as well put something in all the text blocks I carefully inserted.

1. Variety: Many fleece types seem to work
as long as the warp is even and well spun.
For larger tapestries, long staple, inelastic fibers are best
but as you can see from the captions below, 
almost anything goes with smaller  pieces--
​just be prepared for stretch in your warp (and maybe sample... ugh).
Picture
Hand Spun Grey Romney, 2200 yards per pound two ply; Doubled for Four Selvedge Warping.
2.  It is easy to weave in weft ends as you go
Wool warp tends to be hairy, so the little wisps of warp fiber grab the little wisps of weft
 and everything stays in place.
NOTE--don't cut the weft with scissors. This makes a blunt end which will want to pop to the surface of front or back no matter what you do! Untwisting and separating is best, followed by breaking or, if necessary, feathering the end of your yarn with scissors
Picture
Overlapping ends of new and old strand of weft
3. The finished cloth is stable.
Warp and weft work together to make a structurally sound fabric. 
In my experience, cotton or linen warp remains separate from the weft
and can be moved around -- its as though the weft is 'hung' on the warp
but not really part of it.
Some people really like this.
But it freaks me out. 
Picture
Hand spun Cormo knitting yarn -- grey overdyed yellow with weld to make green; 2000 yards per pound 3 ply; doubled in four selvedge warping
4. Wool Warp feels good in my hands. 
No seine twine hang nails
Picture
Warp Face (in progress); Rambioullet; Two Ply knitting yarn dyed yellow with lichen at 3600 yards per pound used double for four selvedge warping. The strands are separated in the face.
5. Wool is easy to dye.
Picture
Hand Spun Romney Warp; 2200 yards per pound 2 ply doubled for four selvedge warping; 9 epi
6. The pH needs of the finished cloth remain constant.
Wool can handle acid but doesn't like alkaline.
Cotton and Linen can handle alkaline but don't like acid.
Makes storage and cleaning tricky.
NOTE: I'm NOT a conservator, so if you are, or know more about this aspect of things, I'd love to hear your thoughts 
Picture
Hand spun Coopworth/Columbia X dyed brown with Walnut; 2000 yards per pound 2 ply. 9 epi
7.  Wrapping weft around a single warp is a viable proposition.
The little hairy bits grab each other, anchoring the weft in place
Picture
Hand spun wool (Wensleydale?) approx. 1800 yards/ pound 2 ply (doubled in four selvedge warping); 9 e.p.i.
Some of my tapestries demand a  LOT of wrapping.
Picture
Brown Sheep Wool Warp -- 1200 yards per pound. 9 epi.
PictureBrown Sheep Wool Warp as above, 9 epi
8. Shaped pieces are easy to deal with
On this tapestry I used a needle to work the warp ends into the back of the tapestry.
This is perfectly possible to do with a cotton or linen warp of course, but some of my  warp ends were VERY short (those on the inside curve had to be cut in half), and I was happy to know that once I had those 1/4 inch bits of warp anchored into the back, they would stay.
Wet finishing and a little agitation helps, of course.

NOTE: this tapestry is one tiny part of Line Dufour's
ongoing International Tapestry Project,
Fate, Destiny and Self-Determination.

All are invited to participate.
You too!

Picture
More Brown Sheep Singles. 8 epi
9. Wool warp is just so pretty.
Subjective, of course.  
But everything I write is subjective, so...
Picture
10. NO (or minimal) shopping
As a spinner, I can make my warp with the materials at hand
  A big plus for me.
Picture
Hand Spun (can't remember breed); 1400 yards per pound 2 ply. 10 epi
11.  Hand spun wool makes great fringe.
(especially with a little deliberate overtwist in the plying)
and with a little forethought, the finished edges can match the body of your tapestry.



Wow -- 11 reasons.
I should put that in the title of the post.
11 REASONS WOOL WARP WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE!!!!!

Kind of like a tabloid newspaper.
​
Never Mind.

​Have a lovely week!

Picture
patti kirch
3/8/2016 02:13:20 pm

Your FAULT why I now love wool warp. Your blog and instagram communication about all things creative in the art world keeps me so excited to fill my day with art, sleep, then do it again! But sometimes I have to work too....
I'll be at the opening of Fate Destiny and Self Determination in Vancouver, at the Craft Council of British Columbia on Thursday, March 24, 2016 from 7:00 - 9:00pm.
I'm also looking forward to your Katazome class and Bag on a Box class at the Palouse Fiberfestival in June! Fingers crossed, hope I get into your classes!

Sarah
3/9/2016 01:07:49 pm

I will happily take the blame Patti.
And do you have a piece in Fate, Destiny and Self-Determination? It is SUCH a cool exhibit and particularly miraculous in person. I was stunned by all the fragments and am pretty sure my current body of work has been influenced by it in a big way.

Margaret Stone
3/8/2016 06:33:01 pm

As usual a great post. Thank you, Sarah, for sharing so much of your creative working life. Read it while watching Tales of the Green valley!!

Sarah
3/9/2016 01:05:57 pm

Thanks Margaret! And thank you for sharing information about the further adventures of Ruth Goodman. I am hooked.

Patti Kirch
3/9/2016 10:25:43 pm

Yes and Nicole too. You are an incredible influence. I entered
"Tapestry letter, Two Zines Please" in the ATA yeah, unjuried show.

Jessica Ostrow link
3/28/2016 06:09:49 pm

I also entered a piece in the U/U show. wool warp.. I can't wait to see them all!

Suzanne Griffith link
3/11/2016 04:19:28 pm

Hi -- I don't know if you're still reading comments from last summer, but here goes.

In #1, it looks like you've used the jig system you described in a more recent post. Could I do something similar on my frame loom without the jig? I'm not all that handy and don't have a carpenter friend. Could I wrap the yarn or cord around the bottom and top rails of the loom? (Sorry, my terminology is nonexistent.)

Sarah
3/14/2016 12:21:08 pm

Hello Suzanne,
It is possible to do a four selvedge warp without a jig by suspending two dowels: the top one from the top of your frame, and the second with more cords from the first (top) dowel to the bottom of what will be your tapestry, and a third set of cords from the lower dowel to the bottom of your frame. I think there is a photo of this in the loom section at the bottom of the four selvedge warping instructions.

The trouble you might run into with a frame loom is that many don't have a tensioning mechanism and it is important to be able to add tension to your warp after you remove your jig (or suspended dowels). But perhaps you could do this with a shim or some kind at hte top of bottom frame of the loom?

I'm not sure if I"m being clear but I hope this helps somewhat!
best,
Sarah


Suzanne Griffith link
3/14/2016 01:32:08 pm

Thank you! Yes, that is exactly what I need to know :-)

I recently bought a Leclerc teaching loom from the 60s, new in the box. It
has tensioning rods on each side.

I'll send you a photo if it works. Thanks very much!

Suzanne

Rebecca Mezoff link
3/19/2016 07:05:40 pm

Sarah, Just going to say here, that I bet Suzanne thought you wrote this last summer because your write your dates in the European style... I do believe you wrote this in March though. Just trying to confuse us all, aren't you... but then some things should be done correctly. Like the metric system. For goodness sake, why didn't that take on this side of the pond?

Robyn Becker link
3/19/2016 03:23:21 am

Please share the spec of the wool warp shown. WPI and twists per inch? Thanks much

Sarah
3/19/2016 10:48:04 am

Hello Robyn -- it is a great suggestion of yours to put all that information with the images, but sadly I rarely have such statistics at hand. Indeed, it is a small miracle that I managed to get the yards per pound of all the yarns shown. In my work I tend to eyeball things, working from the look and feel of the yarn. There is a huge variation in fleece type and yarn characteristics in all the warps shown above, and they all work, which is why I showed so many. My main rule of thumb is to have plenty of twist in both spin and ply, good joins and no breaks.

Experimentation is all. Have fun!

Rebecca Mezoff link
3/19/2016 07:07:25 pm

AND I just have to say that handspun wool warp is a marvelous thing... and some of us are not capable of spinning it for large-sized tapestries (or any tapestries quite frankly... though it could be a goal). Any warp suggestions besides Brown Sheep? Something that is at least a 2-ply so it is balanced? I like that Brown Sheep warp, but don't want the edges of my tapestries to curl up from the one-way twist.

You're going to talk me into wool warp AND handspinning it. Geez Louise. THAT is something.

Sarah
3/20/2016 05:47:54 pm

You are right Rebcca-- spinning warp for a large tapestry is a big undertaking and something I did only until I found a reasonable substitute as It took so much spinning time from weft, let alone sweaters. The only wool warp I've used other than Brown Sheep or my own is the wool warp from Weaving Southwest-- mostly the 3 ply. I use it when I wasn't to dye my warp or really want to avoid that corner curl thing.. I recently learned that Halcyon Yarn had strong wool warp too -- plied and both white and grey. I need to check into it!

Jessica Ostrow link
3/28/2016 06:06:08 pm

You can also get warp yarn from Mora Valley Spinning Mill: http://moravalleyspinningmill.com/our_yarns/
It's churro yarn, different weight, fuzzier than the warp from Weaving Southwest: both are fun!

That said, I have a cotton warp (Mannings seine twine) on one of my looms & I'm going to give it a try...

Hi Rebecca! :)

Rebecca link
3/28/2016 08:28:34 pm

Hi Jessica! I have been to Mora Valley Spinning Mill. At the risk of sounding like a name dropper, I will say that I was there with DY Begay who was testing their wool warps and she deemed them all too weak. But that might have changed by now. This was almost two years ago I think. I suspect if used for four-selvedge where the warp is doubled it wouldn't matter... also probably doesn't matter for small pieces. Mora Valley Spinning Mill IS an amazing place to visit.

Jessica Ostrow link
3/28/2016 09:42:25 pm

Good info! Did she test all of the wool warps? I wouldn't be comfortable using the single ply warp for anything except tiny pieces, and even for that, it might be too thick (even though it is pretty thin) for much more than 10-12 wpi...

I got my first warp from them 2 years ago: 1 ply, 2 and 4, haven't used the 4 yet, used most of the 2 and didn't use the 1 ply.

I like the rustic-ness of the warp.

I also have some from WSW and I love that warp and am almost out of it. Like I said above, I'm going to play with the seine twine that I have and go from there.

Sarah
3/29/2016 04:20:45 pm

Fabulous information Jessica and Rebecca -- worth some experimentation. What I love most is that there is no one right way, but rather myriad variations that can be shifted in response to circumstance of the mood of the moment. Such freedom!

Kate link
3/25/2016 08:16:08 am

You can spin your warp to match your hair or you can spin your hair to document the aging process. It's fun. I'm on year 3.....

Sarah
3/25/2016 09:32:11 am

Now that is something I'd like to see. Are you blending the hair with anything or is it pure prickly hair? Singles or plied?

Kate link
3/25/2016 09:54:42 am

Sarah: I thought I would be organized and spin a bunch of combings every quarter of the year, separated by a couple inches of wool of a similar color. So far I am doing it on drop spindle and it is not quarterly but just when the whim strikes me. Because what I am spinning up only comes to 8 -10 inches at a time, it is easier to just leave it on a spindle and add on. Plying would make sense but too precise for this project. When I get completely gray and it's not changing any more, I will figure out what to do with it. Plan to incorporate into some sort of weaving.

Sarah
3/26/2016 09:14:48 am

Such a compelling long term project, Kate, and a perfect way to do it:time to clean your hairbrush = time to spin a few inches/ feet of hair yarn, so it isn't a bit deal but just something you do. And singles of course, is essential. Plying would remove the time line aspect of it.How fascinating it will be to finally unwind the spindle and see the changes. I have a tarnished silver container of my great grandmothers that I believe was for storing hairbrush hair. Not sure what she did with it (I think she lived after the penchant for hair embroidery), but it was clearly important. Still has a few strands in there, which is a little odd but makes it hard for me to use -- like all the bits of old cloth, i suppose!


Comments are closed.
    Picture

    ​Sarah C Swett 
    tells stories
    with
    ​ and about

     hand spun yarn. 


    Picture
    Click for info on
    my four selvedge
    warping class
    with
    ​ Rebecca Mezoff  
    fringeless


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