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May the Linsey Woolsey Begin!

5/21/2019

 
Picture
Yesterday was wonderful.
Picture
2 ply spindle spun wool (Targhee/Debouillet)
Picture
spindle spun flax --half singles, half 2 ply
A little math showed that I'd spun enough yarn
to warp and weave the first swath of cloth
for an imaginary garment of linen and wool--
​so I began.
Picture
Honestly, the prototype shirt  
I talked about last week

is just so satisfying and comfortable
I couldn't wait another minute.
Picture
Anyway, I really like to warp--
​for tapestry or plain cloth.
Picture
What's not to love
about strand after strand
undulating through a pair of lease sticks?​
Picture
My earlier linseny-woolsey samples
had both wool and linen in the warp.
The cloth is lovely
but warping was a total pain
so for this first swathe of actual yardage
 I'm using 2 ply wool as warp
and singles linen as weft.

​Historic linsey-woolsey 
apparently used linen warp and wool weft,
​and maybe I'll try that next time.
Picture
The Ashford Rigid Heddle 
 is 10 inches wide and 15 dpi.
15 is as fine as rigid heddles go, 
so I designed the yarn with that in mind--
just as I am designing the cloth 
to suit the garment I want to make.

Note: For more info on the three selvedge structure pictured below
there are instructions in Backstrap Dialogues 
Picture
The next swathe  will be
between 4 and 5 inches wide, 
(depending on the draw-in on this one).
Together, they should add up
to my shoulder width.
Picture
It is just so exiting --
(well, to me anyway),
to see how building a garment 
with the narrow lengths of cloth I love to weave
can be an enormous boon to design
rather than the hindrance I once thought it.
Picture
It is also amazing
to run smack into my fixed ideas--
whatever they may be
though in this case
that garment sewing
is all about subtracting shapes
from someone else's idea
of how wide cloth can be made--
and suddenly see
that those ideas
are but illusions
 I can stroll right through.
Picture
There is more exploring to do
along these lines
--building garments in an additive,
minimal-waste way--
and I'm definitely planning to do some,
even as, for the moment,
I'll keep geeking out
on the pleasure of using paper purns
and this old boat shuttle
to slip shots of flax
across the open shed.
Picture
Speaking of geeking out --
I just moved my newsletter host 
from Mailchimp, where it has been for the last few years
to Weebly, the outfit within which I have this website and blog.
There were myriad reasons for this,
​and the odd hassle,
but all I can say for the moment is -- it's done.
Picture
At least I think it is done.
If you usually get the newsletter

and came to the blog today as a result,
you will know that it worked
(things will look different, plus I expect I'll mention it there).

If, however, things don't work quite right
please let me know!
I thank you in advance for your patience.
Cuz, as you probably know,
my geekiness has its limitations.
Picture
Julie Daly
5/21/2019 01:15:32 pm

Good afternoon! Thanks for your delightful posts. A question about lease sticks: do you use them when direct warping? And are they to control tension? Thanks.

Sarah
5/22/2019 04:45:21 pm

The 'lease sticks ' (aka knitting needles), are there to hold the cross for threading the rigid heddle. I take them out before I start to weave. don't think you need this for direct warping. My method is lined out fully in Backstrap Dialogues (in the store) if you need more specifics!

Janine
5/21/2019 01:15:37 pm

So much to love about this post, dear Sarah! Thank you for sharing your process with us!

Ann Parmalee
5/21/2019 01:15:48 pm

Wonderful as always.

liz adams link
5/21/2019 01:15:50 pm

The switch worked a treat. As do you! Always love to see you in my inbox.

Gillian Carrigan
5/21/2019 01:16:50 pm

Thanks

Lynne Kulas
5/21/2019 01:18:20 pm

Love your picture and your work. It inspires me.
I raise sheep, spin, weave and knit.
Thank you for you artistic gifts, Lynne

Hugh Myers
5/21/2019 01:29:04 pm

New Email-age works for me. Love the current project—reminds me of a suit I've hanging (gathering dust I fear) made of lindsy-silk…

Sarah
5/22/2019 04:46:13 pm

Linsey-silk eh? That sounds wonderful. Might have to try it!

Eileen Van Bronkhorst
5/21/2019 01:36:59 pm

Hi Sarah - the new server works great!! Love your posts and meandering ideas.

Lyn link
5/21/2019 01:44:59 pm

"Spindle. I need my spindle." Too sweet. We all have our attachments. I feel that way with my new camera "Fuji friend. I need my Fuji friend!" Attachments are such curious creatures!

Barbara Rickman
5/21/2019 01:51:43 pm

Talk about thinking oiutside the shed! I spun some linen for linsey woolsey and did not even think about using the linen as weft as my flax was spun rather badly. I can still do ie though. Just have to a very narrow wool warp and make a test fabric out of it.

Caroline Ropchan
5/21/2019 01:56:44 pm

The switch is working great. Always look forward to your posts and drawings. Thanks.

Kantu
5/21/2019 02:04:34 pm

Hi Sarah, I love your blog posts. Weaving comes alive with you.

Regarding the change, not so sure. I used to get your newsletter AND blog in my emai. Something must have changed. Several months ago. I tried a few times to sign up again. I did it again today on this blog to receive in my email. Hope it works. Because I like to save some of your instructions and comments on digital files rather than paper.

Sarah
5/22/2019 04:48:19 pm

Gosh, that is really interesting. Do you get the blog via RSS feed? If so, that should still work as nothing there has changed. As for the newsletter -- someone else said that theirs went to spam because it said it was from Sarah C Swett rather than A Field Guide to Needlework -- so perhaps that is what happened? Just a thought. Thanks for signing up again though.

Spinnerholm
5/21/2019 02:09:20 pm

Wonderful inspiration you are in so many things! Thanks, Sarah

Mary O'Donnell
5/21/2019 02:40:03 pm


Wonderful, witty posts--so glad they will continue. Thanks always for sharing your talented work and musings with us!

Noël Nicholls
5/21/2019 02:55:46 pm

New server works here in Oz (Australia) and the blogs just get more delightful and intriguing. Thank you Sarah for all your amazing creativity. 🎉

Lorilla Banbury
5/21/2019 03:11:03 pm

Your new trail of cyber-adventures led you to my computer without any mishaps. Thank you. Love the linsey-woolsey and your innovative set ups for warping.

Beth Gustafson
5/21/2019 03:48:27 pm

Your posts are always an inspiration and a delight! Looking forward to the next step of this lindsey woolsey garment project...with bated breath (imagine that picture...).

Jodi link
5/21/2019 03:54:17 pm

What awesome perspective in the first picture. Your photos are great, (so are the drawings) can’t wait to see what you make!

elizabeth streeter
5/21/2019 03:56:22 pm

Link Worked beautifully as does your work, i love reading your post and will be interested to see how your clothes designing comes along

Giuliana Bond
5/21/2019 05:32:39 pm

Hi Sarah, I'm interested in all your "weavings and writings" but I'm particularly interested in this linseywoolsey cloth you are weaving because just at present I am weaving a length12 inches wide which I plan to make into some kind of Summer garment.
I love all your posts, cheery start to my day😊
Very best wishes,
Giuliana in Australia

Corinne Millang
5/21/2019 07:27:23 pm

Additive garment construction! As a long time garment maker and new weaver I'm very inspired by that concept. I think you've coined a new design term.

Elaine Todd
5/21/2019 08:23:45 pm

The new form of sending us your newsletter and blog went well. I love receiving mail from you, it is always inspirational and fun, I love your cartoons too. Thank you for including us in your life! Weave on!

Diane
5/21/2019 08:31:47 pm

I am so inspired by your work! Love your drawings, they always make me smile. Thanks for sharing!

Peggy Cross
5/21/2019 09:58:15 pm

Sarah, you are a delightful inspiration! Thank you for your art, your humor, and your weaving adventures! Oh! And, YES! Your new service works like a charm! No trouble whatsoever to get to your blog.

Nancy B
5/21/2019 11:41:39 pm

Notification arrived in email and then the link worked without any difficulty. Your posts are always a treat. I'm all for whatever makes it easier/better/quicker for you so that you're not away from that spindle for too long.

Jeanne Lemieux
5/22/2019 03:31:52 am

No issues with email or link, thank the light. I throughly enjoy your posts.

Linda G
5/22/2019 04:38:30 am

Email and links worked. Thank you. I love reading your posts.

heidi
5/22/2019 06:25:24 am

Your last drawing is so me. Started spindling a year ago and it was love at first sight. ❤

Donella Wilson
5/22/2019 10:36:46 am

Here is a website with finer wooden rigid heddles. Google translate works pretty well if German is a mystery, as it is to me. Your fabric is beautiful.

Donella Wilson
5/22/2019 01:41:10 pm

sorry forgot the sitehttp://www.kerstenkircher.de/shop/artikeldetails.php?aid=297

Sarah
5/22/2019 04:49:02 pm

Thank you! I will definitely check this out.

El
5/22/2019 11:46:14 am

Sorry, no; not getting your emails now. Oh well, I still find you!

smaller weaving widths: do you know the artist Anita Luverna Mayer? She once published a dress similar in construction to your skirts only with ~5" wide wee panels, and connected it with crochet wedges. I no longer have the book, but I am pretty sure it's from Clothing from the Hands that Weave. It was like a jumper/romper if I recall correctly. It's funny. Which comes first, the clothing item or the woven item? Or just the spinning, then you follow the yarn...?

Sarah
5/22/2019 04:50:29 pm

I do know Anita's amazing work -- and what a thrill to know she was doing something so similar. To paraphrase Elizabeth Zimmernan -- none of us really invents anything -- but sometimes unventing can happen.

Sarah
5/22/2019 04:52:41 pm

Also! So sorry you're not getting the emails. Did you check your Spam Folder perchance? If it's not there, it might be best if you signed yourself up again on the form on the side of the blog (they are very fussy about me signing people up as they think I might be stealing your info wtihout permission). this is of course, a good thing, if a bit of a hassle for you.

Penny Anast
5/22/2019 12:55:32 pm

Question: linen and wool have vastly different properties. How does that work in a garment? Let’s say, especially in cold or heat or wet? Thanks.

Sarah
5/22/2019 04:43:13 pm

That is what I hope to find out Penny -- and why I'm diving in.
There is much to try, to learn and to explore and I'll do my best to keep up with it all on the blog

Tracy link
5/22/2019 03:38:46 pm

That selvedge is a thing of beauty.
So excited for this fabric!!
(and got your email just fine)

Alison Clark
5/23/2019 12:53:03 am

The new system worked beautifully as I'm sure linsey-woolsey will too. My geekiness too has its limits. As I say at work "I'm a woman who owns spinning wheels and fountain pens and looms, I'm not likely to love computers!" Keep the drop spindles to hand!

Mary Madison link
5/24/2019 12:41:32 pm

I wrote a book in 2016 about slave weavers. In the research they spoke about the different quality of spinning they were required to do. Linsey-woolsey was held in very low regard. Please to see how you elevate it.

Sarah
5/25/2019 08:50:16 pm

Mary! Thank you for letting me know about your book. I just ordered a copy and very much look forward to reading it. What a marvelous thing you have done, to gather the voices and words of slave weavers.
The quality issue is one of the things that really interests me about this cloth. Was Linsey-woolsey inherently horrible cloth, the combination somehow highlighting the worst of both materials and thus yet another way of exerting power and control? Some descriptions seem to play this. Or was it the available materials that made it undesirable — rough tow and scratchy wool relegated to slaves and thus determining its status and simultaneously reinforcing the status of those forced to make and wear it? Did the very phrase become synonymous with poor quality cloth and so be thought undesirable no matter the materials or skill of those who made, worked with and wore it? Could there have been lovely Linsey—Woolsey that was never talked about? For me, the only thing to do, clearly, is to try to make some and see what I can find out even as I’m also doing some exploring into my version of wool/ linen Coptic textiles — 2000 year old garments that have wool tapestry sections woven into balanced woven linen ground cloth, so linen and wool together in a single garment/ piece of fabric (if not interlaced throughout), that appear to have been treasured...
So much to learn about how people and cloth define one another — and so much skill with warp and weft lost through the centuries.
And on we go nonetheless.


Comments are closed.
    Picture

    ​Sarah C Swett 
    tells stories
    with
    ​ and about

     hand spun yarn. 


    Picture
    Click for info on
    my four selvedge
    warping class
    with
    ​ Rebecca Mezoff  
    fringeless


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